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yeah I was thinking about a 50% reduction and it is 3/8 inch so 3/16 it is.
Let me know if it works for you. A lot depends on the GPM rating of the pump. Mine is rated for 7 GPM.
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do you have a idea of a diameter of a hole for the restrictor I should start from ?
The copper washers I used had a 1/4″ hole, but that was for a 1/2″ ID hose connection. If you have 3/8″ hose maybe 3/16″ would work. Kinda trial and error. I used washers from the HF assortment.
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David, you can make a restrictor to put in the grapple cylinder hose connection to slow it down. I used small copper washers (aluminum would work too).
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Yeah, becoming a catskinner doesn’t just happen overnight, but glad you’re enjoying it. :heart:
Here’s the latest update on the mixer. Hope to have it in a couple of car shows next summer.
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It’s pretty bad and unfortunately probably normal. What I mean to say is that the brakes (and brake compartment) should be completely dry. This is an old posting so I’m assuming you have realized by now that you have a leaking seal.
Don’t know how I missed this one, but Little Grizzly is correct, it has to be a dry compartment. There are drain plugs in that compartment that should be removed and checked for oil periodically, about every 200 operating hours, or at every oil change. The steering clutches and steering brake bands are supposed to be dry running. Depending on how much oil came out will tell you if you have to replace the brake bands because they could be saturated with oil. If the steering still functions normally, you are probably ok then. To determine if the oil is coming from the transmission or final drive check to see what type of oil it is (very heavy oil is from the final drive, assuming it has the correct oil) or put dye in the transmission oil.
Hey Grizz, how is the Cat doing? Still have it? Good to hear from you. :yes:
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I found the trick to keeping the squirrels at bay. Feed them peanuts far away from your equipment. I also place bait traps in my equipment to take care of the rats and mice. I just chalk it up to the cost of owning equipment.
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Wow, that 5th wheel is huge. Glad the insurance is kicking in, that would be insurmountable without it.
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Once again the photos wouldn’t go. I can’t figure that part out.
Maybe they are too large. Maximum size is 1,000 kb. Not very big.
Is this the switch you want? https://www.amazon.com/E7NN11N501AB-New-Ignition-Ford-Holland/dp/B00YFQ5D3Y
See if these instructions will work for you:
New “Ford” Switch connections:
Pin / connection
1 / off connect to hot (+12 )
2 / Run 1 accessories N/C or connect to any axillary circuits
3 / to glow plugs
4 / Run 2 or ON connect to lights
5 / starter solenoid (through clutch safety switch)Here are the contacts vs key position:
Key position starting all the way CCW.0 – OFF (no connection) except +12 to the switch
1 – (1 click CW) Pin 1+2 (Accys only)
2 – (2 clicks CW) Pin 1+2+4 (Run position lights+accys)
3 – (3 clicks CW Spring return back to 2) 1+3 (Glow Plugs only)
4 – (4 clicks CW Spring return back to 2) 1+3+5 (start+glow plugs)I believe this is the pinout for your switch:
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