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Geez Eric, that is so sad to hear. Glad everyone got out safely.
Converting to Quick-Tach will open up a wide variety of attachment for you, not to mention the ease of switching attachments. Great idea, imo.
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I bought a grapple kit for my skid steer bucket from them years ago, but I see it isn’t offered now. It’s very well made. I had no problems with the sale, except the shipping was slow. I have since bought a Titan flail mower, skid steer bucket, and pallet forks. Titan’s shipping is very quick, and their customer service is great. Also very good quality, and you can’t beat the prices. Made in China.
Did you notice that CTOA was down for a couple of days? Appears that a lot of recent posts were lost.
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August 2, 2018 at 7:38 pm in reply to: Leaking Seal on Jinma 354 4 wheel drive on front kingpin housing. #48097I would place an oil-sorbent pad under it.
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Too bad the pictures won’t open up, but I think I see where you’re at.
You still need to drop the cross shaft, wishbone, and track fame and move them forward out of the way so you have full access to the final drive/steering clutch assembly. It would be a big help to move the track out of the way, and use a transmission jack with right angle adapters to bolt to the sprocket flange. That will make the whole assembly mobile.
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This is what to expect when you pull the final drive. The whole brake assembly will come with it, band and all.
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I will send pictures today
Excellent, because I’m not sure what you’re referencing.
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Looking at the manual, it looks like it is held on to shaft #17 with the #23 nut, so yes I think it will come off with the final drive assembly. It will probably be difficult since some of the clutch discs are rusted. And be sure the brake band is backed off and the adjustment bolts are backed out.
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Larry has it right, a cold level and a hot level. There should always be coolant in the reservoir, that means there is no air in the radiator or the cooling system, and that’s a good thing.
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Yes yes, warmer is better. I can only conclude that the reason some of these Chinese tractors operate at 60° – 71° C is that is gives more wiggle room for overheating. But given that they don’t incorporate a coolant recovery system indicates they are reluctant to change to modern day thinking.
Today’s engines operate at 82° – 93° C (180° – 200° F) for thermal efficiency. It allows for more complete combustion, resulting in less soot the oil carries in suspension which translates into less bearing wear, and a cleaner exhaust for less air pollution. It also lets the oil run at a higher temperature in order to “boil off” any moisture entrained in the oil.
If this looks like your thermostat it should be easy to cross reference, but you will have to take it into a parts store for comparison. The temperature values for this thermostat are unknown.
https://www.circlegtractorparts.com/cooling-system/490b-43002-thermostat
I recommend a thermostat rated 82° – 85° C. (180° – 185° F). You will notice a positive difference.
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I hear ya Arthur. Don’t know where you are, but here in the Seattle area is seems like we’re getting record breaking heat weekly. Going to be in the mid 90’s all weekend.
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