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Yep, what Piper said. You have deadheaded the hoe’s pump and blown the seal. Check the hoe’s hydraulic reservoir and you’ll see the level down, if not empty. You should double check the suction and discharge porting on the pump against the rotation – looking into the pump ports the suction side will have the gears coming apart, discharge side will have the gears coming together. You will have to buy a new seal now.
But you are correct about the hose sizes – big = suction, little = discharge.
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It sounds to me like your max lift stop bolts are out of adjustment and the lift piston has hyper extended and become cocked in the cylinder. I have heard of this happening on wheelies too. Not too big of a job to correct, but you have to remove the seat. The piston and cylinder are bolted to the bevel gear case cover. Look in your parts manual for an exploded view.
Also, there is no knob under the seat.
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My 20 hp tractor had no fuel gauge but had the access hole for one, I bought a universal marine fuel tank gauge kit so it came with 2 inch gauge and sending unit. works great just trim float stem to what instructions say to cut to that type and shape tank.
That’s my recommendation too. Would save a lot of time and anxiety.
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Diesel engines need higher capacity batteries because of their higher compression ratio and in some cases the use of electric starting aids.
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Thanks for the info. I should also have asked if anyone knows of a particular brand of after market fuel gauges that would work with the oem sending unit? Thank you in advance for any info.
You will first need to determine what type of sending unit you have, a magnetic type or a thermostatic type. Then you will have to match the ohms resistance to the gauge scale. You will need data sheets for this.
So if you want to take the time and trouble, and maybe someone already has, the answer is yes. Otherwise just buy a new Chinese gauge or sending unit, or buy a complete aftermarket set which in all likelihood is made in China anyway.
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Bummer. I remember seeing where someone had relocated the battery close in to the frame on the right side next to the starter. Actually, you could fab a bracket and mount it behind the seat in one of those weatherproof battery boxes.
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I don’t know but it was sure a hard landing. :wacko: :wacko: :wacko: :yahoo:
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I think it was a particular Jinma series specific, not 100% positive though. You’d have to contact him.
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The battery relocation supposedly makes a big difference. I think it was Tommy that had a kit for that.
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