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I think he needs an owner’s manual and parts book. But I’ll betcha he’s gone.
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Sorry I can’t help you, I’m not experienced with wheeled tractors. I would have thought that one of our veterans would have chimed in by now.
Unfortunately it appears that some tractor dealers no longer participate in the forums. You might try contacting them directly.
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Yes, you will have to drop a track and remove the final drive assembly to gain access to the steering clutch compartment.
Picture shows steering clutch with brake drum removed.
Do you have the owner’s and parts manuals?
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There are drain plugs in the bottom of steering clutch/brake housings. These should be removed periodically to inspect for the presence of oil. If the oil is 140 weight, the final drive seal is leaking. If the oil is 90 weight, then the transmission seal is leaking. Check the oil level in the final drives and transmission to see which is low. Yes, the steering clutches and brakes are the dry type. No doubt your brake bands are saturated with oil, which would lead you to believe they are out of adjustment.
What year is your dozer, and how many hours on it?
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is the mower you are using a rotary cutter and how big is it? and I would think low second is kinda on the slow side . I can cut with my dong feng le204a all day with a 4 ft. ruff cut cutter in low four or my 5 ft. finishing mower in the same gear and the temp hangs at 180 deg. F
Hi David…..I’m using a King Kutter XP 4 footer…it has two blades that swing from a center piece…..makes the field look like a war zone..LOL
That is precisely why I chose to use a 6-1/2′ flail mower. I recently mowed about 2,000′ of 8′ tall scotch broom (sorry, no video) alongside my road. Had to make two passes though. The flail mower doesn’t scatter, and it’s much shorter and a little lighter.
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when you blew out the radiator did you blow from the backside to the front side? Sometimes I wash mine with water let it sit to soften the grit wash it again and then blow it out with air . I have never used it but I have seen a additive that you put in the cooling system that is SUPPOSED to improve the ability of the coolant to exchange heat, maybe BOB can give you a name and a idea if it works. By the way a rotary cutter aka bush hog takes less power to run than a finishing mower. Yes a bush hog will cut higher grass but there is a lot of mass when you get it spinning, inertia works. The reason I went down this road I did not want you to change mowers and think the tractor would be under less load so less heat. And the battery thing I went to a lower profile battery when the old one puked that seems to let more air in, just make sure you get a battery with enough amps to do the job.
If I remember correctly, one of the Jinma dealers (I think Affordable Tractor) offered a battery relocation kit for these tractors.
There is an additive called Nalcool 2000 that improves coolant efficiency. I can personally vouch for this additive because we use it extensively in our EMD 16-710G engines throughout our fleet of 27 ships. If you have a few extra dollars and want the best coolant available, try Evans Waterless Coolant.
My recommendations are to give a good chemical flush and rinse, use a coolant like Final Charge or equivalent, install a coolant filter, install a coolant recovery system (this will keep air out of the system), and install filter media in front of the radiator.
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