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The fuel systems on these tractors is a typical Bosch style inline system and with few exceptions is used on virtually all small diesel engines. Glad it’s up and running. Reminds me that I need new glasses. Without a picture I don’t know what plug you’re referring to.
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There are two banjo bolt fittings on the injection pump fuel cavity, one for IN and one for OUT. The one for OUT is the return line to the tank and it has a pressure regulating check valve in it. It can be identified by either a “bubble” or a 6mm bolt in the head. Loosen the OUT banjo bolt and operate the priming pump – you SHOULD get fuel. There is a remote possibility that the check valve is corroded closed and the fuel cavity is air bound. This is all based on the assumption that all of the fuel lines are are good.
To answer a previous question, no, the oil sump and fuel cavity are separate reservoirs. The injection pump and governor share the same sump, and use engine oil. The priming pump plunger must be held down while turning clockwise. If the plunger is allowed to remain up there is a chance air could be drawn into the fuel system. If you are expecting to see fuel at the injectors from using the priming pump, don’t.
What David said about pre-filling the fuel filter, this is a MUST.Account deleted.
Welcome to CTOA flyons.
I have some thoughts, but I’m not a wheeled tractor guy. I’ll let the more knowledgeable chime in first.Account deleted.
Incidentally, to lock down the plunger on the priming pump you turn it clockwise while holding it in the down position.
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First of all, that “rubber debris” is diesel bugs. Black is their color when they are dead, brown when alive. They are micro organisms that live and multiply at the fuel/water-moisture interface. Lots of info online about them. They are highly corrosive and can destroy an injection pump and injectors. I’ll speculate that you haven’t changed the fuel filter, and that it’s plugged solid with bugs. I have seen bugs bring a 10,000 HP diesel to it’s knees. You will need to drain and thoroughly clean the fuel tank and fill with fresh fuel treated with a biocide. You will need to biocide treat for at least two subsequent fill=ups. One of the encounters you may experience is a stuck rack due to any corrosion, but you may get lucky.
Just draining the tank won’t do much good unless you clean it too because the bugs will be on the top and tank walls. Also check the sediment bowl screen and in-tank screen if so equipped.Account deleted.
Others will not benefit if responses are private.
Did you lay up the tractor with a full fuel tank?
Was the tractor under cover during lay up?
Did you start it up approximately every six weeks and warm it up?Account deleted.
Good news. Be sure to swipe a film of fuel around the neoprene gasket before you install it as that will make it much easier to get off next time. And be sure not to over tighten. :good:
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Is it possible to replace the clutch release fingers thru the side opening?
No, but there is no reason why you couldn’t try it. Let us know if it works for you. Consider the cut-away view first and then decide.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wjdY0c8_XI5VybFcrM8nZJr1rX5DC17H/viewAccount deleted.
Didn’t the link that Keno Tractor gave you work for you?
I would help you but I’m not up on wheeled tractors.
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