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Sounds like you are missing a few things. 😉 These are shipped from the factory with a spare set of hoses, enough miscellaneous parts to do an engine overhaul (including spare filters), and a complete set of metric wrenches and sockets (no ratchet tho), hammer, pliers, and screwdrivers. All of the hose connections are metric 14 and 17 mm ORFS. ORFS fittings are becoming more commonplace in the construction machinery industry all the time, and slowly replacing the JIC and SAE fittings in some applications. It’s best to keep a few 6 mm and 8mm O-rings on hand for the ORFS fittings.
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Good to hear David, but I wouldn’t be surprised at all if the factory DID install the Wisconsin engine.
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The throttle cable doesn’t use a return spring because you want it to stay where you set it. You tighten/loosen the friction plate at the handle assembly. And where did that fuel filter come from? That isn’t the original placement. It should be mounter on the left front of the engine and serve as the secondary fuel filter. There should be a sediment bowl with a shut off valve mounted there. I wouldn’t be surprised if your fuel filter had the same part number as the oil filter. Your injection pump and governor are a different brand that mine. Does your engine have a diamond on the left side with “JD” in it? That would be the Jiang Dong TY 395 engine.
I think the previous owner and his mechanic really had their way with this machine.
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There is a plate bracket bolted to the rear of the governor housing. It simply has a shouldered hole for the throttle cable and shut down cable sleeves.
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The end of the #12 cable is rolled around #18 and is staked in place by #19. The outer jacket, I think, is held by #11 & #17. I haven’t been into mine, so I can’t say definitively. If you are referring to the engine end, there is a bracket bolted to the end of the governor that captures the jacket ends of the throttle and shut down Bowden cables.
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Ok, sounds good. I guess you realized that the shuttle clutch and transmission are two separate components, hence the different oils. The four speed transmission and bevel gear case share the same sump. Apologies if this is redundant.
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Yep, that’s it. Disconnect the pigtail electrical connection and remove it. When you reinstall it do as David said, screw it in until it just touches the flywheel and then back it out 3/4 turn and lock it. Be sure it doesn’t turn when you lock it.
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Hey on a side note, I have a Case CX50B midi excavator. Its an 07. I run ISO46 in this as well. I’ve had this unit for little over 2 yrs now and love it. I had a Kubota U45 (grey market machine) before that and it about killed me with problems. I didn’t know about grey market when I bought it. Any who… The Kubota digs twice as fast and definitely more power than this case. This case has never broken down. Not once. It is just so freakin slow I want to cry. I had it in the case dealer shop and they adjusted the pressures up to where their supposed to be (they were low), then said the cycle speed was fine. I was doing water service connections side by side with the gas company installing their services last yr and they had a CX35 that was literally kicking my ass. Granted they only dig 18″ and the machine was much newer, but the thing was like a little ninja! Sadly we are used to it now but it has nearly doubled my dig times. I wish I could trade it in, but not going to happen financially rite now. It would cost me way to much to get set up the way this is. I have 4 buckets, modified hydraulic thumb to fit in 12″ trench, and Hydraulic breaker. Also, I am terrified to get rid of it because it is so reliable. It doesn’t have a single leak, doesn’t burn a drop of oil and will start below zero with little effort.
Lol… long winded….sorry
Is there any thing I can do to increase cycle speed?
Depends on your pump gpm rating, your hose/line size, and your valves gpm rating. You also have to consider if your engine’s HP could handle any increase, and the increased demand on the pump coupling. But to answer your question, yes you can definitely increase your cycle time, but it will cost you.
Nice stable of attachments you have for it. I have a hydraulic thumb, a mechanical quick bucket attach system, four buckets and a rake for my “Mitzi”. It has the ISO control pattern instead of the SAE system – it took a little getting used to. :yahoo:Account deleted.
David got it right except the magnets are located in the reluctor. It actually “counts” the flywheel teeth and the digital pulses are converted to an analog signal for the tach needle. Over time the reluctor will gather oil/dirt and just require cleaning and resetting.
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Can I assume you are changing the transmission and final drive oils?
Transmission uses about 3 gallons of 80w-90 GL-5 gear oil, and the final drives use about 3 quarts each side of 85w-140 or SAE 140 gear oil.
Considering the age of your machine, I would drop the final drive covers, clean and inspect for wear metals. The oil originally shipped with these machines was not quantifiable, and imo, led to early bearing and shaft failures.Account deleted.
