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Hey Bob, So I want to change the engine oil today. Do you have across reference to the oil filter and is 15w40 synthetic blend oil ok for this unit? I use this on all my diesels.
Yes, that’s the recommended oil, however synthetic oil isn’t necessary. You can greatly extend your oil and filter change intervals by using oil analysis. The oil filter is a little tricky until you know what you have because the Chinese filters will have the same part numbers for different filters, and the filter heads will have either metric or SAE threads. My engine uses a Baldwin B-2/NAPA 1515, but your engine may be different. Best to take it into an auto supply and match the seal diameter and the thread size. You can also call any of the tractor dealers for a Chinese brand filter.I cleaned the ground wire to the body and added another one as well. This greatly improved the starters performance but it is still too weak. My battery is still putting out 1000 cca. I will send it out for repair.
As for the brake lever, Keno…no gots…Circle G emailed China and they said don’t make anymore…And northern tool has the opposite side in stock and the other arriving in April. So I have the Left one on its way in the mean time. May be able to make it work in the mean time. My broken one cant be welded. The metal is so porous it looks like Swiss cheese.
You can easily fab your own if you have a key broach.Also, I assume that the ISO46 is ok for the blade hydraulics as well? I used Shell Hydraulic oil rated for wet clutches and gears 30w for the shuttle clutch. Seems fine, running quiet and strong. Obviously, its in the shop off the ground and not run enough to get hot yet. I cant do much until I get the brake lever and free up the RT side steering clutch.
Yes, the ISO AW 46 is good for the blade hydraulics. Maybe I forgot to mention that you can reduce your hydraulic oil inventory by using an ISO AW 32/46/68 multi-grade hydraulic oil. I use this in all my equipment which include hydrostatic drives.Account deleted.
Hahahaha. “A God!” That’s funny.
So, the “roll cage” you referred to is properly called a Roll Over Protection Structure (ROPS) and is certified to support the weight of the machine from front to rear, rear to front or side to side roll over accidents. It’s also a handy place to mount a winch if you ever attach a crane to the three point hitch. Here’s a couple of videos of mine if you get bored.
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Excellent! Good work.
You shouldn’t have to use the compression release at all except in extremely cold weather. My three cylinder TY-395E engine doesn’t even have a compression release and it fires right off after two or three revolutions regardless of the ambient temperature. Make sure that ALL battery cable connections, including the grounding points, are clean, tight, and free of paint and rust. The dozer wiring already has a relay (located behind instrument cluster) for the solenoid, but make sure those connections are clean and tight. The solenoid motor (slug) should be lubricated with graphite, not grease or WD-40 because they get thick when cold and runny when hot, and they are a dirt magnet.
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There are 1/2″ and 1/8″ NPT drain plugs on the bottom of the steering clutch housing, in case you haven’t discovered them already. These are to be inspected periodically and checked for oil from the final drives or transmission. There is also a large magnet behind a four bolt aluminum cover underneath the bevel gear case (They erroneously call it a final drive, which it isn’t).
Good sources for parts:
https://parts.kenotractors.com/yuchai-dozer-parts-c296.aspx
Also, if you have the TY series engine, parts are available from many Jinma wheeled tractor dealers.
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so we removed all the fluid from the clutch case and pulled the lower line on the case. There was many large chunks of silicone and metal clogging the holes in the bolt holding that line on the case. I was wondering if we can enlarge those holes in that bolt to insure that nothing clogs them or if there size is specific to the amount of flow to the pump. I believe even if we were to put a filter on these holes would still clog and stop the flow to the pump.
The clogging of that line probably saved you from buying a new hydraulic pump. this is why there is a strainer on the later models. The previous ignorant mechanic that worked on it didn’t know how to use RTV, or how to make a gasket. I should have suggested when you had it all apart to rinse the case with diesel fuel and suck it out with an air vacuum. Show me a picture of that lower hose connection and I’ll make a recommendation.
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Lets try this…………
QuoteI do find it comical that the hydraulic filter is last in line after fluid passes through all important parts. I am considering moving that to the suction line on the pump.Return line filters are very common. Their purpose is to keep the reservoir clean without sacrificing pump efficiency. There are also pressure side filters that are installed downstream of the pump to protect valves, servos, cylinders, etc. Suction side filters must be approximately twice the flow rate as return line filters so as not to promote cavitation and early pump failure.
Ok good to know. Filter stays where it is. How could I check to see if the accumulator is bad or defective? Also, I am going to pull the return hose off the filter and see how the flow is. Should the flow stop while in forward or reverse?
The flow should stop momentarily while the servos actuate and the accumulator charges, about one second if there isn’t any air in the system and everything is up to operating temperature, and then the system goes into bypass. I’m not exactly sure how your system is plumbed, but it may rely on accumulator pressure to keep the servos actuated, in which case if the accumulator was bad, or not charged correctly, the shuttle clutch would not stay engaged. Worst case scenario is blown servo O-rings and/or fried clutch discs.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/2305/hydraulic-accumulators
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Lets try this…………
QuoteI do find it comical that the hydraulic filter is last in line after fluid passes through all important parts. I am considering moving that to the suction line on the pump.Return line filters are very common. Their purpose is to keep the reservoir clean without sacrificing pump efficiency. There are also pressure side filters that are installed downstream of the pump to protect valves, servos, cylinders, etc. Suction side filters must be approximately twice the flow rate as return line filters so as not to promote cavitation and early pump failure.
Consider this unit if you are going for a suction side filter.
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Ok, the shuttle clutch pump isn’t very big, and it doesn’t have a large output. At least 3/4 less than the other pump, but should be putting out around 60 psig. Did you check the pump suction hose for restrictions?
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