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There is a relief valve attached to the direction control valve, and there may also be one at the pump. Be sure to count the turns when disassembling them. Probably a good idea to temporarily install a 0-200 psig pressure gauge on the pump discharge line to check the pump pressure, and fine tune the relief valve.
If your pump is like the one in the picture, the relief valve is directly underneath the banjo bolt.
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The accumulator stores hydraulic oil under pressure. Some are spring loaded and some will have a nitrogen gas charge. I don’t know which type you have, but in any case do not try to disassemble it. It’s purpose is to keep the direction control (rotate) valve pressurized. Some of the first models don’t have this.
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You have two PTO”s. The upper one runs at engine speed, and is live. It’s behind a four bolt cover plate. The lower one is a splined shaft. The swing on the shift lever is quite wide, and should be: HIGH – NEUTRAL – LOW, with HIGH being all the way forward. If there is no detent or position for the high range then you don’t have it. On my tractor the splined PTO is dependent on the clutch. If the clutch is disengaged the PTO doesn’t turn, but it will turn if the transmission is in neutral.
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before it broke the first time, there was a delay between forward and reverse… is this normal.
Yes. About 1-1/2 to 3 seconds with a cold machine. Any more than that and you could have a bad accumulator, or it lost it’s charge, or you have low pump pressure (maybe from a dirty relief valve?).
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Success!!! …..well for 20ft….Got it running….ran forward and reverse….sounded ok… then nothing….at all. I can see fluid moving through the shuttle clutch dipstick hole. There was a huge delay before engaging forward or reverse and now nothing??? pump is not loading engine at all. usually can hear it engaging. Also does the pto only operate while in gear, or will it run with the engine??? Literally had to shove it back in shop with bobcat again…lol
Check the shuttle clutch pump relief valve, it may have debris in it. Check the pump tang drive, but if the tractor hydraulics are working this is probably ok. Is there enough oil? Chances are you probably rolled or broke an O-ring that supplies pressure to the servos when you put the top cover back on.
You have two PTO’s on the rear (maybe). The upper one is a tang drive, and is live – it operates with the engine. The lower one is a 1-3/8″ six spline shaft that may or may not have a two speed selector lever with the forward position being 720 r/m – neutral – rear position being 540 r/m (these speeds are attained when the engine is operating at about 1,850 r/m.
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Note: Rest the dipstick threads on top of the case to get an accurate reading. Do not screw in.
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I cannot find anywhere that Traveler UTF oil is rated by the American Gear Manufacturers Association (AGMA), however, ISO AW 46 and 68 hydraulic oil is. Another curiosity about the traveler oil is the Cat TO-2 rating – which one? For me there are too many unanswered questions and curiosities about the Traveler oil. Use at your own risk. I would use your ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil if you can’t find any ISO AW 150 or 220 Machine Oil. There should be a sight glass in the left side reservoir, as well as a return filter.
I have this exact set up…no sight glass though. Ok… It says it is sae 10w20 oil. I will use my ISO46. Got this oil from Tractor Supply.. Most of their stock doesn’t give much description of the oil.
I seriously doubt many people at Tractor Supply have the knowledge of a lubrication engineer so I wouldn’t expect much credible information from them. I do happen to know a couple of lubrication engineers through work (one from Chevron, one from Exxon-Mobil), and I glean all I can from them. I’m also a Chief Engineer and Master Mechanic by trade so I need to have a working knowledge of lubricants beyond “Tom down the road said it’s fine”. I already had the sight gauge fitting bosses in my left tank so I just ordered a new sight gauge from Keno. You can purchase sight gauges that install from one side, or you can make a very simple one by drilling two holes, one at top, one at bottom, in the reservoir for 1/8″ NPT fittings.
I will check for sight glass fittings, if none i will make my own. The owners manual says 30w or 40w oil. Not sure if that can be trusted.
Nope. I wouldn’t trust it. Not specific enough. And engine oil is formulated primarily for plain bearings (Crankshaft).
Also, at what height should the oil level be. Should it be below the hose that goes to the top of the shuttle housing? Otherwise I believe it would over fill shuttle housing.
This gets a little more sophisticated. The reservoir’s purpose is to allow the hydraulic oil enough time in residence to deaerate and cool, and allow for settling out of any particles (that’s why the “fill hose” is up from the bottom). The level of the reservoir should be maintained at the bottom of the “fill hose” level while the clutch dipstick reads at the full mark with the engine running at low idle. This is kind of like checking the automatic transmission in your car. There should also be a cleanout port on the reservoir too.
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I cannot find anywhere that Traveler UTF oil is rated by the American Gear Manufacturers Association (AGMA), however, ISO AW 46 and 68 hydraulic oil is. Another curiosity about the traveler oil is the Cat TO-2 rating – which one? For me there are too many unanswered questions and curiosities about the Traveler oil. Use at your own risk. I would use your ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil if you can’t find any ISO AW 150 or 220 Machine Oil. There should be a sight glass in the left side reservoir, as well as a return filter.
I have this exact set up…no sight glass though. Ok… It says it is sae 10w20 oil. I will use my ISO46. Got this oil from Tractor Supply.. Most of their stock doesn’t give much description of the oil.
I seriously doubt many people at Tractor Supply have the knowledge of a lubrication engineer so I wouldn’t expect much credible information from them. I do happen to know a couple of lubrication engineers through work (one from Chevron, one from Exxon-Mobil), and I glean all I can from them. I’m also a Chief Engineer and Master Mechanic by trade so I need to have a working knowledge of lubricants beyond “Tom down the road said it’s fine”.
I already had the sight gauge fitting bosses in my left tank so I just ordered a new sight gauge from Keno. You can purchase sight gauges that install from one side, or you can make a very simple one by drilling two holes, one at top, one at bottom, in the reservoir for 1/8″ NPT fittings.
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