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I’ve had the same simple password over the several evolutions of this site. I even check the “Remember me” box and allow my anti-virus to store my password.
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Good to know Doc. Keep an eye on that pump oil level and be sure to change it when it becomes diluted with fuel.
A pull spring added to the fuel shutoff lever should work for you.
Sorry I can’t help with the FWD issue.
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Yes, I believe you can, but that’s above my pay grade. Here are some tips, hope they help:
https://www.circlegtractorparts.com/help-guides/jinma-clutch-adjustment.html
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I don’t know what to say. You say the clutch works fine but it won’t disengage. To me that’s NOT fine.
Check where the clutch pedal connects to the clutch cross shaft to see if the roll pin has been sheared. That’s the easy part. If the roll pin isn’t sheared and the shaft rotates with the clutch pedal, then the pins in the yoke have sheared, and you have to split the tractor to repair it (I believe).
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Hand fed.
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1T4GGHP_enUS676US676&q=Tractor+repair+service+in+central+Ontario&oq=Tractor+repair+service+in+central+Ontario&gs_l=psy-ab.12…8370.27706.0.33207.12.12.0.0.0.0.137.1135.5j6.11.0….0…1.1.64.psy-ab..1.4.457…35i39k1.zATt-uuyWbw
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Hand fed.
Take your pick.
https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=Jinma+284+clutch+replacement&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGHP_enUS676US676&q=Jinma+284+clutch+replacement&gs_l=hp…0.0.0.0.16173………..0.Gjj_PASYBSU&gws_rd=ssl
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Yes, what David said.
Always check/set valve clearances AFTER you have re-torqued the head because re-torqueing can change the dimension.
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On mine, I replaced the sediment bowl/valve assembly with a 1/4″ ball valve, inline filter, and flexible fuel line from the auto parts store. I cut the steel fuel line 2″ back from the lift pump banjo fitting. 5/16″ fuel line fits perfectly over the steel tubing with hose clamps. Been on there for several years, no leaks.
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