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Very nice job, and I might add that it’s actually better than new. I have a HF farm trailer I might do that to (if I ever get the time).
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Who installed the front end loader?
Were quick connects used for the installation?
What hydraulic lines were changed/added?
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ULS diesel fuel has relatively poor lubricating properties since most of the sulfur has been removed making it even more important to change the oil in your fuel injection pump/governor assembly on a more timely basis. It’s very likely that you have run some dirty/moist fuel and it has corroded the barrel and plunger assemblies allowing them to leak by into the sump. When the sump level goes down after it’s started indicates that the level is above the governor flyweights and is being thrown about inside the housing. This isn’t good as it adds additional side loading to the flyweights and makes them less responsive to load/throttle changes.
My advice is to change the oil in the injection pump/governor right away using the same oil as in the engine, and to monitor it closely. Shut off the fuel valve at the tank after every use
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Sounds like there is something that’s keeping the relief valve from functioning, or it is set too high, assuming the pump is in proper working order. Yes, a blown seal is the only way hydraulic oil gets into the engine. A pressure gauge will tell the story.
Have you ever cleaned the valve? How is your return filter?
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Awesome restoration on that cooler.
If you don’t mind eBay, there is this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-5-post-diesel-ignition-switch-with-glow-plug-pos-/142424981409
Cole-Hersee used to make a nice weathertight one but I can’t find it.
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Yep, you’re good, although it won’t make a multi-grade because it lacks formulation (base stock hydrocarbons aren’t linked). I use multi-grade ISO AW 32/46/68 hydraulic oil in all my equipment. It not only saves on inventory, but satisfies operating temperature requirements.
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Just saw this. Wow. Did you consider a double lip seal? Nice mod and beautifully done too but I hope you relieved (chamfered, like a crankshaft oil hole) the cross-drilled exit hole so as not to create a surface stress raiser. Lots of torque applied to that shaft. Hope it proves successful.
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Yes, what Hal said. Don’t be shy.
I’ll speculate you want to know the relief pressure rating. Well, I think is about 9 psig with a vacuum release of around 15″ hg. Of course we all know that you have a coolant recovery system installed so you don’t lose coolant, and keeps air from being entrained in the cooling system. :yahoo:
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So I removed the thimble caps and sure enough it was exactly as Tinbender stated. One of the screws holding the springs was loose. I tightened it down and it works perfectly when re-assembled. All is well. Thanks so much to everyone for your assistance in debugging this hydraulic problem. It is much appreciated. I am still planning to swap out the quick couplers.
A shining star example of a great member. The follow-ups are greatly appreciated, unlike some members that can’t afford the time.
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