Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Does it have to be more exact than that?
Absolutely. The cylinders must have the same bore, stroke, and displacement (rod size). Otherwise there will be a whole lot of twistin’ goin’ on.
If Northern can’t supply the correct cylinder, then you may have to purchase two new ones to match.
Did you check here? http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/
Account deleted.
Yes, what David said. And no, the cylinders don’t have to be replaced in pairs. A hydraulic repair shop can re-weld the cylinder end. This cannot be done while there is oil in the cylinder.
Account deleted.
Robert & Fred,
I’m curious. What led you to believe that you need to replace the fuel injection pump assembly?
Account deleted.
If you warm the seals it will help a lot. You can also use some shim stock to get past the threads.
Account deleted.
If I remember correctly the operating pressure for the servos is around 40 – 60 psig.
I’m almost positive that’s not a normally stocked part. Your best bet, I think, would be to have a dealer order one for you (Eastwind?), or you may be able to order directly from Yuchai.
Man, that’s a bummer but glad you found it before it got worse.
Account deleted.
An afterthought on the knocking noise. I would check the tang drive on the shuttle clutch’s hydraulic pump. These have been known to give problems on the tractor’s pump, but not aware of any issues with the clutch pump. Just a thought.
Account deleted.
The gentleman that wrote a “manual” on the shuttle clutch initially had a problem with his in that the splined input shaft was machined slightly too short, so that might account for the knocking sound you hear (hopefully not).
There are no service manuals available for these machines, but the owner’s and parts manuals cover most of the basic stuff. If you will PM me your email address I will send you the manuals plus the shuttle clutch supplement.
I think the oil you selected is a bit heavy and slightly off target for this application. You have what is essentially a geared friction drive, similar to a marine or forklift transmission, and not unlike an automotive automatic transmission. The oil I recommend for these clutches is ISO AW 150 Machine Oil. ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil may also be used. Both of these oils will have an AGMA rating.
Account deleted.
Your mechanic will find that making the steering clutch/brake sequence work correctly he will have to pre-load the brake band so it will always be dragging (it’s a Yuchai design issue).
Mixing types of anti-freeze can have a very detrimental affect. I know you won’t follow my recommendations, but I strongly suggest you perform a good chemical flush and rinse, and install a good coolant formulated for diesel engines such as Final Charge. You will notice that I also have a cooling system filter – which you will find standard on higher end equipment.
Account deleted.
It was here I believe. Let me know if you see anything.
http://www.ctoa.net/topic/nortrac-254-power-steering-cylinder-rebuild/
Account deleted.
In your testimony about cleaning and checking the radiator, you didn’t say if you water washed the core fins and reverse blew them out. Can I assume you did? These don’t have a pusher fan so a lot of flax and dust will get sucked in around that rock filter and lodge in the fins. Knowledgeable operators fit furnace filter media to the radiator when brush hogging.
One other little dozer that is well worth mentioning is the Hanmey Trio MD50. A sweet little machine.
Did you remove the inspection plug on the other Steering compartment to check?
Here is my rig, along with some videos, and some mods I’ve made. Enjoy.
https://www.facebook.com/yuchaidozer/
Account deleted.
