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Working with another gent with the same symptoms. He even changed out his oil pump with no difference, and also checked the filter head. The oil pump also has a bypass valve built in, but that was discounted too, and now the crankshaft bearings are suspect. He’s going to inspect the journal bearings and mic his crank. He has 1,200 hrs. on the engine but I suspect it ran with dirty oil for some time, but I know you are meticulous with maintenance so that wouldn’t apply.
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It should be noted that you can run completely out of fuel and the sediment bowl will still be full. Why? Because the lift pump takes it’s suction from the TOP of the bowl just below the screen, not the bottom, because that’s were the sediment and moisture are supposed to precipitate out of the fuel.
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What you should do first in this case is to shut off the fuel supply at the tank and remove the glass/plastic sediment bowl and inspect the screen. Dispose of the fuel and clean the bowl. The screen is located above the bowl gasket. If it appears to have sludge on it, those are dead diesel bugs. If the screen is clean, replace it and the bowl, and turn on the fuel and see how fast the bowl fills with the hand priming pump. If it doesn’t begin filling after the second or third pump the in-tank screen is probably plugged. Bad news.
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What Tinbender said. If I remember correctly it’s a 42″ B-belt. I switched to a Fenner Drives polyester linked belt purchased at Harbor Freight when I switched alternators.
No one had a B42 belt. So i got a Fenner belt at Harbour Freight in columbus Ohio. Works Great !
I wasn’t 100% positive about the 42″ length, but glad you got the linked belt anyway. You’ll find that it will need a couple of adjustments before it gets stretched out.
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If you have a single deckplate the pedals will have to be removed from the arms before you can remove the deckplate. If you have two deckplates, only the clutch pedal has to be removed from the arm.
Make sure the holes on the arm and shaft are in alignment. Some people will insert a smaller split pin inside the larger one and index the splits 180 degrees apart. Personally, I prefer the coiled pins.
I think you got this.
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What Tinbender said. If I remember correctly it’s a 42″ B-belt. I switched to a Fenner Drives polyester linked belt purchased at Harbor Freight when I switched alternators.
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The regen (regeneration) function is when a valve block has spool ports that open both lines of a cylinder(s) to each other, through a detent, so the hydraulic oil passes between both sides of the piston without having to return to the reservoir. The resulting action dumps the bucket almost immediately. These are available from many sources, but I think Tommy has made up a valve specifically for some Chinese tractors.
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Contact Tommy at Affordable Tractor, he has the scoop on the hydraulic pumps and parts.
“Faster and cost effective” should not be used in the same sentence :yahoo: The bigger faster pumps cost more money than the replacement parts for the original pump, or another original type pump.
Also, I believe he has an updated loader valve. Sounds like you need a valve with regen.
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