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As an addendum to Piper, your OEM alternator only has a nominal 14 amp output. Barely enough to keep up with the lights. BUT it is a TEFC alternator, which is a very good thing on a tractor. The Delco’s are not TEFC so consequently all the dust and chaff that goes through your radiator also goes into the alternator. The Delco’s have a 35+ amp output (depending on the model) so you will have to upgrade your output wiring. In my case the Delco 12sI was a direct fit, no modification of any sort was needed, but I did install a smaller pulley in order to get the alternator revs up to be somewhat comparable to a high speed automotive engine. It’s also my understanding that Tommy now has a higher output OEM alternator available. Check with him for pricing.
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Any good brand will do as long as it meets API classification CH-4, CI-4, or CJ-4. This will be on the container label in the API “Doughnut”. Most people, I believe, use Shell Rotella 15w-40 and Chevron Delo400 15w-40 because they are rated for four stroke diesel service, and are good for year ’round use. But beginning in December of ’16 the designations are going to morph again to “CK”.
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Are you talking about an actual transfer case or a shuttle clutch (forward and reverse)?
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Yes, I had the same issues with hoses except mine were twofold because I have two extra hoses on each side that tee under the seat for the loader attachment. You are probably already aware of this, but hydraulic hoses must not be twisted. When tightening the fittings, always double wrench. I have seen instances where the fittings have loosened themselves and other instances where the fittings have failed because of the stress. I have a pair of RR tie ramps myself. Nothing fancy, just beveled a little on one end. It’s all you really need if you take it slow.
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I guess they were afraid of scratching the paint by pushing some load with it, what else could it be, besides it’s not my job to do that!
Ha! I doubt seriously if Northern Tool is a union shop. But it seems that one of those positions is open.
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Well that’s great news. Glad it was something simple. Doesn’t speak well of their pre delivery service though.
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A thin film of RTV is ok, but preferably something like Hi Tack because it doesn’t have a tendency to squeeze out. You did good applying it to one surface. :good:
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Also, if the top end of the engine seemed dry there could be a restriction in the orifice #28 in the#1 rocker shaft standoff, this is where the rockers get supplied with oil, and the rocker shaft has to be indexed correctly. Did you get an engine manual?
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The bypass valve adjustment is located under the acorn nut on the filter head, but I think you have to remove the filter head to get at the valve itself. Not sure though, might all come out through the top. The bypass valve doesn’t go around the filter, it dumps back to the sump. Essentially it regulates the pressure going to the filter. The filter itself has a bypass valve to aid in cold startups and plugged filters but doesn’t regulate oil pressure.
Experience has also taught me to check the simplest and easiest things first. :yes:
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