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It could also be that the pressure relief valve in the filter head is stuck open and bypassing all the oil back to the sump, but by all means check with a mechanical gauge first.
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Bummer.
What has happened before in a wheeled tractor with the same engine is that the key in the oil pump drive shaft sheared. #15. Fairly easy to get to once the sump base is removed. Unfortunately you have to work around the track equalizer.
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Well, aside from the tractor wiring being undersized for an 80 amp alternator, consider that you are also giving up the safety of having the OEM TEFC alternator. I know it doesn’t matter to most of you because you don’t understand the importance. With the exception of only a few, the Delco Si alternators are open frame and draw their cooling air through the front, which is fine for their intended purpose on on-highway vehicles. On tractors they sit right behind the radiator cooling fan and get blasted head on with chaff and dust. Enough chaff buildup can, and has, caused fires. There are several Delco Si alternator models that have a closed face fan and draw cooling air in from the rear. This is a compromise on having a TEFC alternator. Virtually all high-end Ag equipment has TEFC alternators. Aftermarket TEFC alternators are available from Prestolite/Leece-Neville or Motorola.
http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/alt_search.php
So not having a TEFC alternator is synonymous with the guy that’s not going to lash his tractor to the trailer because he’s not going on a thousand mile trip.
Don’t worry, I’m not going to mention this again.
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I would go with a bad voltage regulator. Make sure ALL of your ground connections are squeaky clean. There are several caveats about going with the Si alternators, but most people I’ve seen ignore them anyway so I won’t bother.
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Are you sure that’s the battery charging light and not just the “key on” light?
There should be a red LED on the voltage regulator that indicates field excitation when the key is on. If that LED does not come on then there is a problem with the key switch/wiring circuit, or the regulator is bad. Regulators are cheap.
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I removed that parking brake altogether. It serves no real practical purpose, and is a hindrance when adjusting the steering clutch/brake. When you park the dozer put the blade in float and the transmission in 2L.
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Well, finally got to try out the dozer last night. Wasn’t the best experience. I have a couple of issues that need to be corrected by the warranty. First when the dozer loads down while pushing dirt the tracks quit spinning the engine sounds like it is loading, but doesn’t bog down. The whole dozer comes to a stop but RPM’s don’t drop. Think there might be grease or oil on clutch or they did not adjust it correctly when putting it together. Free play looks roughly right, so worried about oil. I was nowhere near the point it should have quit moving. (I went and got my 4 wheel 33 hp tractor to push the load just in case it was me. It pushed it fine.) Secondly, the dozer will steer if you are on a hard gravel surface, but if you get into the dirt or sand it will not turn or will turn if you pump the steering pedal. If you push either pedal lightly or heavy the tracks quit moving and you sit still. Engine still hums along like it has no load on it. Right pedal is much firmer than left. When you use parking brake only left pedal moves. (This might be normal) Hopefully I can get someone out soon to get it going. Bob; the nortac dozer does not have the big plugs under the steering clutches. just a 10mm bolt and jam nut for inspection. I guess I will stick a pipe cleaner or something up in there to make sure there is no oil. I have faith all will be well and this purchase will work out. It looks like a solid machine when the gremlins are worked out. At least it’s under warranty!
Definitely main clutch is slipping. What gear configuration are you using to dig? I use 2L at around 1,800 r/m.
When in soft material like sand, loose clay and uncompacted gravel, don’t attempt tight turns as this side-loads the tracks, fills them with material, and is carried up and over and drops down in front of the sprockets and idlers. Dirt isn’t much of a problem but large rocks can make you throw a track. These machines don’t have swing frame covers like other dozers, and their rock guards are wanting.
The bolt and locknut under the steering compartment is for adjusting the brake bands. There should be two more on the backside. If you remove them, count the turns and put them back exactly as before.
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