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These are positive displacement pumps and are capable of producing very high pressures. Deadheading happens when the pump pumps against a closed valve or restriction without a pressure relief valve, and exceeds design pressure. Sometimes the pump itself cracks open or a hose bursts. I believe you’ve been pretty lucky so far. If you have a front end loader with quick connect couplers, check to make sure the couplers are connected properly, they may have to be disassembled to be checked. Another item is the relief valve in your control valve, this should be inspected as well.
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A bi-directional double lip seal to prevent cross contamination. These are not pressure rated seals and are only capable of holding 8-10 psig. That shaft looks pretty dirty too, and there’s a chance you could have damaged the seal installing it over the shaft. I’m beginning to suspect the pump is deadheading.
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When I put my oil seal in I pushed it in all the way to where it was flush with the inside of the hydraulic pump. I put the spring part of the oil seal towards the outside of the hydraulic pump I did not use a circlip but for some reason it’s still push hydraulic fluid through to the oil?
Well, you installed the shaft seal backwards. The spring goes to the inside, and body flush to the outside, just like in your picture. Did you replace the other seals too? They are just as important. And forget about c-clips, there aren’t any. Think about it for a second – if a c-clip was needed to hold in a lip seal, then the fit wouldn’t be tight enough to effectively seal. :scratch:
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I can’t even remember all the brand names of the hydraulic pumps I’ve rebuilt over the past 50 years, but I don’t recall any of them capturing a lip seal with a c-clip. Can you please furnish some details? The CBN-E314L hydraulic pump does not use a c-clip – anywhere. Here is what a seal kit looks like for your pump. If you didn’t replace ALL of the seals, you’re asking for it.
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If possible, post some pics of how you are installing the seal (hindsight being 20-20). I believe the method was posted before, but the side with the spring on the lip goes facing the hydraulic oil side. The seal should be pressed in (not hammered) slowly until the face side (opposite the spring side) is flush with the outside of the pump end housing. Here is a video showing the basics, never mind the advertising,
Also, make sure there are no blockages in the hydraulic system that could cause the pump to deadhead, such as bad quick-couplers, stuck relief valve, etc. If you have a pump with excessive clearances, that will cause full hydraulic pressure to exert against the seal, which it is not designed to hold against.
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Think of a fuel injection pump as an inline engine’s camshaft, but instead of the lobes lifting intake and exhaust valves they are lifting plungers in pump barrels. There is also an eccentric lobe on the camshaft for the lift pump, just like a mechanical fuel pump on a car. For these reasons alone I would only use engine oil.
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I tried to watch that Keno Tractors YouTube video and it sounded like they said 100 compressor oil, but I don’t know what that is.
Keno got the compressor oil idea from a fellow on another website that wasn’t at all familiar with the operation of a fuel injection pump and governor. I have been down that road with Keno several times. They seem to think a fuel injection pump must somehow operate like an air or gas compressor to warrant specifying that oil. The truth is that they are the only company in the world that specifies compressor oil for use in a diesel fuel injection pump. Another truth is that literally thousands of these Bosch type fuel injection pumps are lubricated from the engine’s oil system. There is a big difference between the formulation and base stocks used in compressor and motor oil.
The injection pump oil should be changed regularly, at least with every engine oil change. Why? Because of fuel dilution, which is to be expected because there are no seals on the barrel and plungers because they are “lap fitted”. To my knowledge, NO fuel injection pump has seals on the plunger assemblies. Sure, compressor oil will work, Marvel Mystery Oil will work, 3-in-1 oil will work, and just about any other oil will “work”. BUT, there is no advantage gained in using them, and their use cannot be justified, then there is the added cost and inventory to consider. My Mitsubishi and Yanmar diesels both have pressure lubricated fuel injection pumps from the engine.
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Has this only happened since you replaced the pump? Some of the pumps have a non-adjustable by-pass valve built in. If yours does it could be stuck closed from debris behind the spring – it would be the large silver nut on the pump. There is also an adjustable pressure relief valve on the direction control valve that by-passes to the reservoir which could also be the problem with debris. Have you checked the system pressure? It should only be 60 – 70 psig maximum, 50 – 60 psig preferred. Except for this issue, does the clutch seem to operate correctly?
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