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I think his point was to watch out for what is making the engine run hot.
Wasn’t my take at all. I understood him to mean that a coolant recovery system was unnecessary because the engines were designed to run cold (anything under 160°F/71°C), and if it didn’t come from the factory with it you don’t need it. While it is true that you don’t need improvements for the tractor to run and operate, you do need them to operate more efficiently and dependably.
If you go with the hotter thermostat you will notice the difference in performance.
Ultimately, it’s your call.
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Affordable also said that these engines should never need a coolant reservoir because they are designed to run under boiling conditions. If they boil over, something needs fixed. I ordered my parts & can’t wait to get it put back together.
Here is where Tommy and I disagree.
If the engines were “designed to run under boiling conditions”, they wouldn’t use a pressure cap on the radiator. What would be the point then?
Backing up a little, you want the least amount of air in a cooling system (none is good) because air enhances cavitation, and cavitation creates erosion, particularly around cylinder liners (hot spots where the piston rings flip), and coolant pump impellers (turbulence). So you want the radiator to be as full as possible, like right up to the neck. Ok, now we all know that heat expands and cold contracts. Now apply that law of physics to the coolant in your engine. A radiator full of coolant (with no air) will expand a certain amount and needs somewhere to go, but first there needs to be enough expansion (pressure) to lift the radiator cap. When that point is reached the cap seal opens and the excess coolant is expelled through the overflow tube. All well and good because the radiator is still full of coolant, and no air. Now, when it comes time to warm down the engine and let temperatures equalize the coolant begins to contract. There is a vacuum relief valve in the radiator cap that opens to prevent the radiator from imploding, and in doing so lets air back into the system. That is where the coolant reservoir comes in. It allows the otherwise expelled coolant to be drawn back into the system instead of air. This also allows for the use of a higher temperature thermostat (better thermal equilibrium in engine components). But why would you want that, you ask? Thermal efficiency. 185°F to 195°F (85°C to 90°C) is ideal for these engines. It greatly reduces the amount of soot in the exhaust and oil, and offers more efficient fuel combustion from a hotter combustion chamber. It also allows accumulated moisture in the oil to vaporize (boil off). It will also give lower fuel consumption. These engines adapt very well to modern concepts. I have been running a 185°F thermostat in my dozer for the past 700 odd hours and it runs sweet. I also periodically run oil analysis checks, which many people don’t do, but I just like to know what’s going on, such as bearing wear, coolant cross-contamination, fuel dilution, etc. I consider $15,000 an investment I want to take good care of. I also have aftermarket coolant filters on all my equipment, as well as coolant recovery reservoirs. It’s very cheap insurance.
I probably left out a few other good points, but I think you get the idea.
In seeking very high thermal efficiency, Cummins Engine and the US Army did some testing…. Oilless bearings??
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/840428/
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The reason that “no thermostat” will cause overheating, particularly under heavy continuous load, is that the coolant doesn’t spend enough time in residence in the core tubes, rather rushes right through without dissipating much heat so the heat absorption is cumulative to the saturation point and that’s when the temperature starts to climb and won’t stop until the load is removed.
Thermostats help to cool an engine as well as warm it up. This is why I hate old wives tales.
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Do you have quick couplers for your FEL? These have been known to be problematic and cause pump spiking/deadheading. Some have removed the internals to remedy the problem, others have reverted to flat-face couplers, and others have removed them altogether.
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Yes, what David said. Stuck solenoid. I’ve seen this happen when the solenoid motor (slug) is lubricated with grease instead of graphite. Grease thickens in cold temps and is also a dust and dirt magnet.
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Fishing is good for the soul. You can also get those Block Checks at any NAPA store if that’s more convenient.
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I pulled my 8N’s radiator & hose sprayed it out, but it was a pain in the butt. I was hoping not to have to do it on this, but I’ve got discing to do in the next few weeks. It’s always seemed like junk in the fins has been the problem w/every heat issues I’ve dealt with before, but I blew it out really good at the end of the fall w/air last year. Time is the biggest factor. There just ain’t enough of it.
So, do you think installing a furnace filter in front of the radiator is a crappy idea? I mentioned it to you before but maybe you missed it. It really works great. I’d hate to tell you I told you so.
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I’m just guessing at the best case scenario. I really don’t know, but if the fastener has a head on it, it likely won’t get past that. Also thinking it isn’t intended for very large fasteners.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/sg/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_290.html
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