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I had a leak on the front axle on my 284 shortly after I bought it. In chasing the cause, I found that the vent plug wasn’t open-wiped the oil off of the little curved pipe, and blew debris out right into my left eye. seemed to stop leaking after that (2005) until recently-now I’m sure that the seals are bad. Might check on the vent. I can’t see how pressure can build up inside the axle housings, but the vent must be there for a reason.
Much belated thanks to the responders. I’ve moved 3 times since the original post-due to wife’s health issues, and just now have been getting back to using the 284. I did rebuild the original valve shortly after the original responses came in and it is still working great. The unit has always “dropped” pretty fast, and I’m working on slowing that down a little-think the valve under the front of the seat may be the valve that can control this speed. There doesn’t seem to be a successful way to feather the valve on the down cycle-doesn’t perform the same way twice in a row so to speak! I haven’t adjusted this valve for 5 or 6 years, and when I did I remember that I thought it was frozen-almost broke it-before I remembered that there was a locking screw on the valve……got to start thinking about things before I wade into the project!! Again, thanks for the responses-great group of members :good:
Hi Tinbender. I already have several assortments of “O” rings, so may ( based on your “piece of cake” ) estimation of the project go ahead and rebuild it. I’d like to keep it as original even though most owners seem to go the replacement/upgrade route. Love the tractor!! :good: :bye:
I need to rebuild the original valve unit for the FEL-I know that most owners go for an aftermarket unit, but this one must have been one of the “good ones” that was turned out-used extensively and just now seems to be both leaking (ordered crush washers today for the hoses) at the hose connections, and just has gotten sluggish cycling-maybe too much fluid getting by the “O” rings and seals. would like to keep the original on the tractor if it can be rebuilt. Has anyone rebuilt an original unit instead of replacing it? Is it a fairly straightforward project?
“We have found the enemy….and it is us!”
A little late for a reply, but I replaced the head gasket on my 485 several years ago and did the 2 stage ramp up torque tightening. have put around 300 hours on the tractor since with no problems. Wouldn’t hurt to go to 3 stages as Dave suggests-purpose of the exercise is to make sure the pressure on the gasket is about the same over the entire sealing surface.
First time I have been on the forum in quite a while. Somewhere there is a post of the cradle I made for my backhoe. I can wheel the hoe to the tractor ( JM 284 ) and have it hooked up in 15 – 20 minutes – removal just the opposite and about the same time. The cradle makes storage easy and you can move it wherever you want in your storage shed. I still have the original backhoe without any upgrades/mods, and other than a weak left hand swivel action, it works perfectly.
Tractors only problem is that as it ages, it leaks more hydraulic fluid out of the reservoir dipstick on the tractor. Air bubbles, etc., so I will do the tightening of all hose fittings, etc. and see if I can get this problem under control. 2005 tractor.
If you roto-till in creeper gear, be sure to get paid by the hour! Low in creeper on my tractor is 1/10 of a mph.
A better use: I cut quite a few trees up to 18″ caliper, and leave the 6″ – 8″ high stumps alone for about a year so the part you see abve ground gets soft and pithy. I then take them out ( or rip off any part above ground ) with a potato plow on the 3 point hitch.
I just drop the plow behind the sump, with the plow point centered in the middle of the back of the stump, put the tranny in 4WD, and then shift into creeper, low side, first gear. Usually, the stump comes right out. On a really tough one, I lock up the rear axle. If the stump doesn't all come out, you can make several passes through the stump and tear off any wood sticking up high enough for the mower to find-do a little dirt work and seed, and you never know the stump was there.
BTW: 284 Jinma, 12 speeds forward, 4 reverse
Bob
THANKS!!
I Took apart the byass ( relief ) valve today, and cleaned the parts, lubed the parts up, and reassembled the valve.
I set the bypass pressure at about 1800 PSI gauge. Works lik a new tractor!!
Appreciate the help from the responders!
Bob
Lobster: In the original post, you say the pan is cracked from top to bottom. If that means the side of the pan (sump ) is cracked, I would advise you to make a repair posthaste…….because the sides of the sump are the structural component that holds the engine in, and also provides the structural support (spacing) between the sides of the frame. If the sump is cracked, the area where it bolts into (up to) the block is in deep trouble. A broken engne block would be a much wose and costlier repair than fixng the sump.
I hyope you are talking about the motherboard!!
JM2$W
Bob
I can't address the 300 series. On my 2005 284, the motherboard, which is the bottom of the oil pan, is removable from below. It sits right above the drive shaft for the FWD. About 20 bolts holding it to the upper pan,and no attachment to the rigid frame. Look underneath your tractor and if it is like mine, the repair sequence is obvious. The oil pan drain plug is in the motherboard. Frame/engine attachment is achieved by bolting into the sides of the cast oil sump-which is open on the bottom and sealed by the installation of the motherboard and gasket. The motherboard is shallow enough that it looks like it will come off w/o any interference from oil pump, etc. At worst, the drive shaft for the FWD would have to be dopped for cleaance to remove te board.
If the crack is contained on the motherboard, you could do the repair!
Bob
