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I've got a 2005 284 with the Yangdong Y385T engine. Visually, it appears that te oil pan ( or at least the bottom of the oil pan ) does not have any connetion with the tractor frame. The bottom of the pan, the “oil sump motherboard” Part NO. Y380T-01705, and its gasket, PN Y380T-01706, appear to be easily removable. You may take a look at your pan, and if the crack is in the bottom of the pan, the motherboard, it maybe easily removable ( 10 bolts and washers, PN GB/T5783-2000, M8X 22, and washers NO. G848-85 ).
Based on the drawng, the oil sump, ( the oil sump forms the sides of the oil pan, the mother board seals off the bottom ) PN Y385T-1-01701, and gasket, PN Y380T-01018, may also be easily accessible ( unless your tractor carries as much grease and oil around with it as mine does). Take a ood look with a flashlight up under the engine and see if the bolts are visble and can be removed easily. The repair may be easier than you think, and you may not have to split the tractor.
If the job requires splitting the tractor, I would seriously consider going to a shop that knows how to work on Jinma's.
Bob
I haven't had time to clean the valve today..but found something interesting. I have been losing hydraulic fluid through the air breather on the reservoir for years, and have just been adding fluid-easier than dealing wih the problem.
Yesterday I adjusted the hich control valve because it seemed like my implements were just immediatey dropping when I lowered them-and the displaced fluid was going back into the reservoir so fast that it was gushing out of the breather ( the hole in the reservoir bolt cap under the seat ).
After adjusting the lower speed to a slow drop, no fluid loss, and hydraulics working much better. Should have dealt with this sooner!! Hope to get the valve cleaned tommorrow/Bob
PS: be sure to loosen the set screw on the valve before adjusting, then retighten the set screw when the valve is set right – and a little moement of the valve makes a big change-go slow! CW to lower drop speed ( float ), CCW to increase drop speed.
The loader valve is the old style. I do have a liquid filled pressure gauge in the line, and will make sure not to let the pressure become a problem befrore I get it cleaned up. I'm cleaning the valve tomorrow, and hope that is what it is.
What is the procedure for setting the valve once it has been cleaned? I will mark where the lock nut is now, and go from there? This loader has worked great since it was new, I use it almost every day for chores/helping neighbors, etc.
Canuckshooter: When you describe the relief valve are you talking about the bypass valve located in the main control valve for the FEL, or are you referring to the proportioning valve that gives priority to the steering function?
I use a 4' blade to grade with, but only after I have used a box blade with the rippers set at the highest setting, to loosen the soil. One suggestion: If the blade is floating, you may not have it set to dig-remember, you don't have downforce, but you can set the height of the blade. If it is set (curved into the dirt at the base enough to dig when it hits the high spots) right, it should pick up the dirt in the high spots.
This works well for me, and when I get the area levelled fairly good, I turn the blade around, put a little weight accross the 3 point frame, and drag the area with the blade just floating-it won't dig in, but will help to level and rough spots. Bob
Hi Len: I don't know if another brand bucket will fit your unit….do know that most of the Chinese units are “copies” of other established brands, but would think that it might be best, and less expensive in the long run, to buy the bucket made for your unit. It would be a pretty big job to change the mounting locations on another bucket in order to get the right angles, etc.
You might check with dealers to see if they can ship with another order to your area, then pick up at the warehouse.
JMHO/Bob
Well….you guys named the topic firewood, and I'm not good at pictures, so thought I would get back to the firewood topic
I've spent the last few years developing a tree species that doesn't have bark, and is square. Trunks run 10″ X 10″, and are similar to the oak type of wood. The wood sections, I cut them about 18″ long, split easily, and you end up with 4 5″ X 5″ X 18″ long logs after splitting. No bark mess, burns to a fine ash that cuts cleanout time in half. Makes for a pretty neat looking wood pile!
At least – thats what I have my neighbors believing!! I've been cutting up the 160 year old beams from the old barn, and heating my house with them. Efforts to sell them on E bay, Craigs List, and local ads, sold only a few, so I'm getting some good out of them and not just throwing them away. Hey…you did say firewood…right??
