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Thanks for the measurements the donut, I am working on getting it locally made, can’t seem to find one online etc.
Any help on a replacement radiator cap, one of the old posts had said stant 18282 7 psi but napa can’t find that part #
Any news on donut size?
I am anxious to replace my thermostat, only running about 140 degrees
Also how do you post pics from an iPad on this site?
Tim
This isn’t in the manual, it’s something that you just acquire a feel for, but generally if you are pushing a half full blade straight on (not digging), both feet off the pedals, and you depress one pedal about one-quarter to halfway, the machine should begin to turn in that direction. If it does not, and the adjustment is correct, then you have a sticking/dragging steering clutch. Further application of the pedal should apply the brake and the machine will begin to turn sharply.
understand this now:
when I put left brake on right track stopped, when under load as above without any clutch or brake applies right track didn’t turn, I loosened up the right clutch adjustment and solved that problem completely
<p style=”text-align: center;”>actually did a little dirt pushing today and lots of power now, but temp only to 140 so need to change thermostat soon, Bob, do you have have measurements on the rubber donut?</p>
i am still working on further adjusting the brakes, took out the bottom brake adjustment bolt and NO oil in brake assembly, but the bottom adjustment bolt was all the way in but not touching the band. Working on putting in a longer bolt but the threads on the bottom bolt hole need to be tapped so gives me an excuse for a HF metric tap setalso need to remove broken drain plug under brake still.
Thanks for the advice
Beg to differ Bob. The segmented lining with the bolt-on link certainly can be installed through the top hatch. I did mine a while back though not without difficulty. Method I used was to run a loop of fencing wire through the links then feed the wire around the drum. Once that was through I used a 6ft crowbar to reef the band around. Lot less bother than removing the final drives. Pictures somewhere if I can f
thanks for the info and pics, good to know, I am still troubleshooting my brake band adjustments to see if replacement is necessary
1). how do you trouble shoot and know if you have frozen /stuck steering clutches on one side vs an actual brake adjustment issue?
2) so I use a Napa 133 thermostat and OEM donunt from thermostat but not OEM thermostat?
Thanks for the info on the thermostat
I think I will take out the bottom brake bolt and check for oil in the brake compartment as the plug is now damaged
I have a manual and have read it and the adjustment procedure multiple times. Just read the one that you had outlined last pm and tomorrow will apply it to my foot located brake pedals. Apparently, I haven’t understood it so far because I am still having problems braking the right track
while attempting to remove the plug, the head
snapped of the
plug under the brake housing, I guess I will drill a pilot hole through the remainder of the plug and check for oil that way till I can drill and tap that out
attempted to adjust the right brake and seems like I get to the point where the right brake locks up both tracks before the right brake actually starts working effectively. right brake works intermittently in forward and not well at all in reverse. need some advice here please.
the plugs certainly have never been out and it is going to take some effort to pull the 13 mm plug to check for oil but I will attempt again soon when I can jimmy rig a tool with more leverage.
if the clutch is not releasing you get a squealing type sound from the track side when moving forward correct?
I think Napa may have a thermostat but didn’t have the “rubber donut” it was a thermostat 133 and gasket 1040 ST. Any thoughts on where to get the proper replacement themostat?
used some 16 mm coarse bolts in the holes on the blade to put up a 1/2 in pvc frame 2 foot high with a 5 foot piece horizontally across that I may attach an inexpensive bubble level to so I will know if blade is level without getting out of the seat to look.
thanks for the heads up on the side sloping, currently working on building several large dirt berms landscaping berms 7 foot tall but plan on raising them up 1/2 to 1 foot or so at a time and not ending up on the side at all!
Understand about the temperature, can’t seem to find the link for aftermarket thermostats and the picture of that rubber donut. What will fit a TY395 EPA injector for a coolant thermostat, gasket etc?
will check drain plugs under brake assembly for oiL, and further adjust clutch release
need to see the blade to check for blade level etc, will try 16 mm coarse just hard to find that size metric
Like the grade indicator idea, what is a safe number not to exceed on a slope sideways?
tim
Great videos! Thanks for the link!
Replaced the water temp gauge today, and the light switches. Runs at about 130 degrees now.
The right brake was pretty tight and mached the left after the “protocol” but now isn’t as responsive after some use?
is it possible to replace the brake lining from the top of the dozer with out removing the track?
Hard to see the blade, any help on the thread size on on the original holes in the blade for eyebolts, I am working on putting up some blade markers but tried 14 mm coarse and was slightly small. Can’t afford laser levels yet but may jimmy rig a Bosch laser detector at a later date.
Tim
