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That's sad to hear but a PTO shield would not have kept her from getting hurt since she got caught by a bolt at the gear box. People always get hurt when they ignore the danger of what they are doing. The only time a PTO shield guards you is when nothing is connected to the PTO. The PTO should not be engaged until the drive shaft is hooked to it and the tractor shouldn't be running while it is being hooked up.
In spite of guards and other protections people will get hurt. It seems we always do foolish things mostly without thinking about it.
They are useless and a waste of time. They are in the way for using the PTO. I took mine off just after I bought it and have not had an issue since.
If the PTO is disengaged as it should be there is no need for a cover. You don't leave your PTO engaged all the time do you?
I believe the glow plug goes into the precombustion chamber from which there is no direct entry to the piston.
For many years the way I have set the valves on engines is by rotating the crank until both valves are closed on a cylinder and then setting the clearance. This never has failed to do the job.
It's been years since I set the overhead on my tractor but as best I remember I ran into the same issue you have, the pointer didn't line up with TDC when the valves were closed. When I realized that I just used my tried and true method of setting the valves and it worked.
Thinking about it now, I remember spending several hours trying to figure out why TDC didn't end up with the valves being closed and finally gave up.
If the both valves are closed on a cylinder then the cam is on the low side of the lift and the clearance can be set then. It's not rocket science, just do it.
I suggest that you not use 4whl drive unless you need it. Every turn puts a strain on the drive train while in 4whl drive. If you find yourself slipping pull the lever into 4whl drive and when not needed take it out.
When I first got my 2001 tractor the balls came out. I found the snap ring groove was not machined deep enough so I machined it out. I have not had that happen again and I have used 4whl drive rather hard at times.
I think a lot of issues on levers not moving is because they are not used for long periods and will stick from corrosion. However, there may be something broken inside so don't force anything without trying to find the problem. The 50/50 mixture of ATF and Acetone is the best penetrating oil you will ever find but mix only what you will need or keep it capped to prevent evaporation of the Acetone.
Don't look at the pulley, when both valves are closed set the valves on that cylinder. Then rotate the crank and do the same on the cylinder with the closed valves. Rotate the crank and do the last cylinder. If the valves are closed the piston is at or near TDC no matter what the pulley mark says unless someone tore the engine down and failed to correctly time the cam.
You haven't torn the engine down have you? Was the engine running before you started doing the overhead? Are you sure your turning the crank in the correct direction?
Just putting a click type torque wrench on the head bolts and pulling until it clicks will only tell you if you have a very loose head bolt. If all the head bolts are loose your head gasket is probably leaking. If the bolts don't move and the head isn't leaking your ok.
To really know what the head bolts are torqued to you must mark one hex point and the head surface then loosen that bolt and torque it to the spec. If the point of the hex is before the mark it was over torqued. If the point of the hex aligns with the mark on the head it was correctly torqued. If the point of the hex is past the mark on the head the bolt was under torqued.
You don't have to follow the firing order. Just look for both valves to be loose and set them. Turn the crank until you see one cyl with the exh valve closed and the intake open. Turn the crank until the intake valve is closed and you will be on the compression stroke and you can set the valves on that cyl. Do the same with the other cylinders.
Always rotate the crank a little when installing and torquing each main cap and rod cap.
When torquing pull steady until it clicks and STOP. Do not jerk on the wrench or try to pull it real fast. When checking the torque loosen the bolt and re-torque it to spec. If you want to see if it was loose or tight then mark where one of the hex edges is and then loosen and re-torque to spec. Then look to see if the mark is before, at or past the mark. You have to mark the hex and the surface the bolt is against.
Have fun.
If you move the filter to the rear of the radiator that will exposed the fins to all the trash your trying to keep out.
Hmm, that furnace filter is a good idea but I think I may try fastening one to the removable screen with nylon ties. Sometimes I have to come to the shop and blow the radiator fins out two or three times to cut a two acre field.
I have a 2000 Jinma 254 and I don't see anything wrong with moving the air filter as long as it fits fine. What ever you do DON'T put any part of it outside the hood.
I have been mowing my land and anything that is outside the engine cover could have been ripped off. In fact, many things did get ripped off as I mowed down trees and very tall brush and briers. They ripped me up almost as much as the tractor. I have a lot of maintenance to do now. I was surprised the mower was able to chop up 2″ diameter trees.
