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I don't use a block heater. I hold the comp release open and turn the engine over until the oil pressure comes up. When that happens you have also put some fuel into the cylinders. Then I hold the glow plugs on for from 15 to 30 seconds depending on how cold it is then with the comp release open I turn the engine over for about 2 seconds and then close the comp release and most the time it will start.
If it don't I repeat the process from where I held the glow plugs on and it usually fires right up.
To fix that you can put a dipstick in the front box. Drill and tap the cover for a 1/2″ pipe plug. Drill the plug to insert a 3/16″ rod in the plug so it will be down in the oil. With the front box at the correct level mark the rod and then cut off the lower end so you have about 1″ of rod below the high level mark. Mark the rod so you will know the high level mark.
I will go measure where the plug should be in the cover.
This was a fix that was on the old site and is probably no longer to be found.
I have a dipstick in both boxes and it's handy to have.
I gave up using Internet Explorer when they came out with IE8. It screwed everything up so much I had to have a tech friend help me out and I went to google chrome and Firefox. I use google 99% of the time and it works without flaw.
Thank you Hal for getting the site back up and running.
Yes, glad to see the sites ok. I don't always post but I do look and was surprised when the site failed to open.
Thanks Hal
Nice dozer and good luck building a mouse proof garage. Your best bet is to use mouse food and sticky mouse trap paper. Don't use the mouse pellet type use the solid stick type. They will carry off the pellets and store them for future use and you will be finding them in everything in the shop including the dozer.
Injectors and fuel pumps for diesel engines are not something for anyone but a skilled fuel systems mechanic to try to repair. There is no way to ” clean and field adjust” an injector. There are no replacement parts for our injectors or fuel pumps, all we can do is replace them with new. The only way to set injectors and fuel pumps is with the correct test stands and calibration charts.
yes, the additive package does make a difference. In the middle 1970's Chevron changed the additive package without telling Cummins and it cost Cummins a huge amount of money because of sudden oil consumption issues. Before that issue Cummins used Chevron Delo 400 exclusively and after the oil consumption issue they changed to using Rotella T as the recommended oil. I think they also sued Chevron but I can't remember for sure.
Anyway, additive packages does make a big difference in oil performance and you have to be careful what oil you use for each application.
When I change the tranny and axle oils I will probably use the EP oil.
I'm not a master mechanic Bob but I just use the oil the manual recommends. I don't think it matters if you use 30 wt oil or EP oil as long as it is brass compatible. Since my tractor has so much time on it I have considered using a thicker oil or an EP oil when I make the next oil change for the drive train.
I don't think there is a real “correct” oil as long as it's a good oil and at least 30 wt. or thicker. I wouldn't use the hyd. tranny oil for sure.
