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as for the i dont see whats so funny.
i have to time alot of lorries by ear as you can not get a dial gauge in as the compressor is in the way.
i guess your new to this game then.
it of late reply lol.
sometimes it just the bolt on piston that has come loose.
very easy to sort. it will be easier to open on tractor, or atleast crack open the gland cap then remove, i just undo the rod as dont see the point struggling to hold ram whilst undoing the gland cap.
looks like to me on fuel pump its 4 teeth up from orange pointer, going clock wise.
i cant see the pulley being all way the round like yours. its normally set to half way then on most stuff its dial guaged or spilled which moves it a little away from centre but never that much.
is there any diff colour teeth or dots on pulleys.
i get this with perkins on the 4236 engine, they just use permanent marker.
yet the later 4236 with screwed in injectors and some have dots or lines.
did you only remove fuel pump, as i can tell you a way to do it by ear.
your pump, you sure it pushes enough lpm
October 11, 2011 at 2:58 am in reply to: Oh crap… cleaned out fuel system… rough starting. Is it the timing? #33354just sounds like air in there to me. surely you never took fuel pump off.
did you bleed it after.
ok, but i thought they used a dry liner like a perkins engine
i always like the sreen as holds more water plus takes out the heavy in fuel.
ok its easy, just done mine lol.
i used a blunt chisel.
undone the plate at rear on axle housing.
use the blunt chisel to knock to 540 cog on inside as not to mark the teeth.
once shaft has come free, you then have to get front small bearing off to get out of the housing, i held mine up against the large cog thats in your way, gently tapped shaft until bearing came off.
be pointless trying to just refit new shells.
its brown bread.
engine needs to come out, crank checked and ground.
a rod with movement bends the crank as its like a hammer hitting hot steel.
it then gets machined to square it again.
so many people do no realise this.
if you just fit shells, how would you remove metal fillings from inside crank and everywhere else they have passed.
you also would not be able to see if the journals are good.
ive tried to be cheeky many years ago on car, changed just shells, engine in, sump off.
they lasted 60 miles.
thats whats going to happen here.
gotta have a crank regrind.
check pistons, i normally find these are all ok.
its just getting metal fillings out as oil takes them round the block.
cant see this being a injector problem, white smoke is lack of compression.
what engine do you have.
im guessing its a direct injection engine as you expect it to start with out glow plugs.
if you do a compression test, you need to have 550psi min.
if not its a head off job.
i would like to know what engine you have.
hours as well
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