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cant see this being a injector problem, white smoke is lack of compression.
what engine do you have.
im guessing its a direct injection engine as you expect it to start with out glow plugs.
if you do a compression test, you need to have 550psi min.
if not its a head off job.
i would like to know what engine you have.
hours as well
take pipe off to lift pump, see if it runs out, i think it will be slow, take cap off and blow hard up line until you hear it bubble.
now see what fuel runs out like, i think stuff in bottom of tank is blocking it or pipe has a spot where it has a bubble that is blocking the hole.
if not, try to run engine from a jerry can, that will tell you a answer.
oh forgot, watts x volts will give you the amps.
so look at each bulb, get the watts off it.
x it by 12v or 13v add together all your wattage then times the volts and thats your answer.
remember you need to work out all power usage, everything that takes power.
where as me i use a amps clamp.
oh and if you are using 10 amps, you wont get 10 amps out of your tractor if at low revs, will need to be more like 2000 rpm to balance it out.
so try not to stop and start to much unless you throw away that alternator and replace with a car alternator, dont go to big as will steal alot of engine power.
about a 40amp will be plenty, will put a noticeable strain on there when charging, running heavy loads etc.
mine running only puts out 12.9.
i checked as replaced battery, thought wow its a bit low.
never had no probs starting, done a alternator test by amps and osciliscope and yeah. its fine just dead weak.
i got about 12 or 13 amps, cant remember the rpm.
it looked to me that the regulator was set low to 12.9
i do see cars with regs set at 13 to 14.4v
i only see 14.4v on jap stuff.
uk just toucing 14v.
you need to know how much the watts are on the bulbs when on.
i dont think my tractor has a charge light, im pretty sure.
it has 3 wires on back of alternator.
same as yours by the sound.
also on another forum i see something about plunger gets stuck.
some link rod or something, they fixed it in minutes and said it was easy.
i know there is oil in your pump as half way up there is a tube, if you undo the bolt, it should leak oil out to say its full.
hope that helps
i had a sim problem. was broken teeth.
also the bearings are high where there is no oil.
can you send me picture of your rear end, need to see pto and back of housing.
im not sure what your machine is but 9 out of 10 there the same.
need a couple of pics as need to see what rear end, need to see in pics just under rear seat and half way down rear end.
another pic showing me a the rear end so i can see the pto and around it.
make sure they are good pictures.
also does this have a 540 and 1000 rpm pto.
you can email me the pics at cjimmybond@aol.com as i can never put pics on these sites lol
remember i wont reply straight away as time difference so be a day behind.
as its morning now and going to work.
in all my days of injectors i not seen or heard of adjusting.
it sounds like to me the fuel pump is pulling in air.
if i was to look at injectors, i would deffo not pull them apart as they dont take much dirt to block them.
if it is a faulty injector then you can renozzle it but the calibration is the tough bit. sometimes you can away just fitting nozzle but would you risk it knowing that a injector thats not working correct will harm your engine.
if your gonna take it out, wrap it to keep clean, send it off to be tested.
that way you know where you stand for sure and not waste time looking at something thats not wrong.
its not that expensive to get nozzles fitted in injectors.
leaving a bad injector that sprays to much is bad and expensive as it washes all your lubrication away, the piston now is in a dry cylinder going up and down, the cylinder half way down goes huge until you hear a knock, thats the piston slap.
