DavidPrivett

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  • in reply to: hydraulic issue #50321
    DavidPrivett
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      drain the hydro system before checking screen filter as it is the low point of the system so it will come out there kinda fast, it is better to do it at the drain plug.

      in reply to: 284 can’t get lever to go into reverse #50317
      DavidPrivett
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        the shuttle shifts have problems with the pins that hold the linkages together breaking this could be your issue also.

        in reply to: 284 can’t get lever to go into reverse #50316
        DavidPrivett
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          ok that is a shuttle shift, I would seperate the linkages at the transmission and operate the shifter to see if there is any binding. if all is smooth the transmission forks might be at fault. Have you tryed to move the tractor forward some distance and try reverse again? also have you checked your free play on the clutch ,it should be about 1 inch.

          in reply to: gauges on dash #50314
          DavidPrivett
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            while it is running you might want to stick your hand under the dash and move the wires  around some to see if there is needles on the gauges start jumping around. yes most likely a ground but it could be a resistance problem on the hot side.

            in reply to: 284 can’t get lever to go into reverse #50313
            DavidPrivett
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              is this a standard trans type or a shuttle shift??

              in reply to: hydraulic issue #50305
              DavidPrivett
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                it could be the control block but most likely it is a cylinder that is internally bypassing so it is not building the same pressures you had ,I got one on the slew on my backhoe now doing this, so off it comes and goes to the shop.

                in reply to: 4 wheel drive #50302
                DavidPrivett
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                  hopefully I will never need it but I will keep your repair in mind. update after a while to let whos left here know how sucessful the repair it is.

                  in reply to: hydro remote couplers #50295
                  DavidPrivett
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                    well it was kinda tuff but I did figure out what size of the internal o-ring that these couplers use 3.5 mm cross section by inside diameter of 19mm and  by a outside diameter of 26.00mm ,no leaks so I guess these couplers can be resealed fairly easily. when installing remember that the hard plastic wear ring goes towards the front of the quick connect where the hose would plug in.

                    in reply to: leaking diesel fuel #50272
                    DavidPrivett
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                      on my y380 ‘s pump there is two drains ,one on either side of the smallest diameter of the pump. so remove both to completely drain oil from pump. remove the mushroom shaped vent on top of the pump ,at this point oil should run out of bottom of pump, it would be a good idea to catch it in a clear glass jar to inspect it. If all looks good use engine oil to refill. There is a bolt in the side of pump that is your oil level . these pumps do not use much oil and the fill at a slow rate, so  over filling is possible so leave side fill bolt out for a few min. before capping it off. If on inspection where oil should be is dry a new pump or repair will be necessary, if there is diesel where oil should be the pump is on its way out, but frequently done oil changes of the pump can extend its life for awhile.

                      in reply to: leaking diesel fuel #50269
                      DavidPrivett
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                        have you ever looked at or changed the oil in the injector pump,it might be a good idea to drain it and see if it is dry or full of diesel or has oil in it. If it is dry then get new pump ,I would not bother trying to get it fixed. if it has diesel or oil in it a refresh is possible if you have a qualified shop around to look at it. but you will need to run a cost estimate to see if a repair will save you over a new pump. I have a y380 so I will like to hear of what you come up with as to sourcing or repairing the pump.

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