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I seem to remember that the quick connects could fail ,and when they did they restricted the flow . I believe that most people just changed them out ,instead if trying to repair them. I guess that would be something to check first at the inlets and outlets at the pump for debris fr0m the quick connects. If all is clean I guess it would have to be the valve body. Might want to look at the connectors to see if they have any filter screens inserted in them, you just never know.
It could have been a fluke but when I heated the ring gear to take it off and turn it over and then heated it again it never quite shrank down enough and when you would engage the starter the ring gear would spin on the flywheel so just be aware this I guess can happen. At the price I would go new and maybe save the old one as a just in case.
I got courious and looked at the y380 engine and the ring gear is replaceable and at circle g for 67 bucks plus shipping.
some ring gears are not directional and can be flipped over and some not, as I look at the picture of the ring gear it looks to me that it is a directional ring gear,but it might be the angle the picture was taken at. I am wondering if the ring gear was made on the flywheel and non replaceable too. I had one that I had flipped and could not get it to fully lock on the flywheel had to tack weld in a few places, it was on a tractor and the potential unballanced condition I created by tack welding did not show up because of the low rpms there. anyway it might be good to look at a exploded view of the clutch flywheel assm. and see if it shows the ring gear as a seperate piece.
can you chuck up that rebound bearing in a lathe and take off some for better engagement?? Or are you gonna have the old starter rebuilt? or is it to far gone?
not to be a wise ass but you need to run it more, something you might want to look at is the fuel, I assume that it is cold where ever you are at and it might have a trace of water in the fuel that had frozen in the injector pump governor housing. Not saying that this happened but with equipment that is not used much , condensation can get into fuels, more so stuff not kept under cover. So as stated above check the oil in the injector,smell and feel it to see if there is diesel in it ,if there is a more than normal oil scheduled change out might be a good idea. If equiped with a fuel sediment filter look at it to make sure there is no water in it.
some of these tractors have a screen inside the tank, so when you take the fuel line loose at the shut off valve and open it if you do not have good flow from the tank it could be a screen in the tank and the tank should be pumped out before you try to clean it. it would be pretty messy to try to catch it in a bucket, and remember to inspect fuel for water and any trash.
as the injection timing is concerned make sure to do your research on this before attempting to adjust factory settings. some engine injector pumps have to be shimmed to change timing. any engine can product sparks thru the exaust that is why to get forrest rated engines have spark arrestor screen on outlet side of muffler to prevent fires. usally I notice sparks when a piece of equipment is used at night, I would think this is carbon burning up, it is tuff to say over the net if you have excessive sparks coming out of exaust, I would think if the engine is running well you should be ok, if engine is running ruff then when you figure out the issue ,sparks should go to what ever is normal for that engine..
