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and got rid of that plastic fuel bowl, glass is so much easier to see the condition of the fuel that it contains.and glass does not care (i dont think) about uv rays
I remember on the old site 50c figure was given as a temp to start puttin around. like to get where you are going be fore putting the tractor to workin.I assume that is reasonable.
I do not know if this is a even near perfect way to tell if the engine is at a temp to start working it,but I grab the oil filter and feel how warm it is before I put some rpm to it.
well I still have a rubber fuel line in between the tank and the bowl that I wanted to get rid of but a ford filter for a 8n worked to the stock brackets just got a flare to barb fitting and cut off the banjo fitting on the outlet of the old fuel line.
makes me wonder how long the original chinese junk oil was in the crankcase,but it dont matter now.
Maybe there was some trash in the oil that made it to the oil hole in the crank that feeds the bearing .I sure hope not. that would be a crank and and bearings.have you tryed one of those mechanics stethoscope maybe you can narrow it down some.harbor freight has them cheap.
as I was looking threw the post I did not see anything about oil pressure.if you think a piston rod bearing is knocking? was there anything that would have caused this kind of failure? lack of oil,water in oil.if all you got is a oil light ,place a mech. gauge to get a reading.
I would look at the fuel system, I believe you have solid lifters and why would a push rod bend unless something was not put together correctly from the factory which I think would have showed up much earlier.I know that the adjustments on the lifters has been a issue but as for my 2 tractors were only talking a few thousands one way or the other.nothing that would bend a rod. and if it comes and goes that should not be a solid lifter or rod.earlier you were talking soot maybe uncomplete combustion due to fuel injector,pump issue?and that might be a hard to start cause also.
that sounds good. though you might want to consider the relay will not take much amps to activate use the lead that goes to the glow plugs to go to the hot side of the button switch, then go to the relay.that way when the key switch is off, the power is off to the glow plug switch .I prefer to keep to a minium stuff that is hot all the time. just a thought
