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there is two different types of injectors on these chinese tractors as far as I know . One type is self lubercating off the engine oil via a hose the area around the oil filter and the oil pressure adjusting screw. And the other type uses only the oil resivour that is in the injector pump. So I am thinking you have the latter and the sump is dry. Look at the injector pump I think if yours is like mine there will be a domeish thing which is a vent on top of the pump , that when taken out is the fill. There should be a screw somewhere in the middle , maybe with a hose fitting capped off, that will be your oil level. And a drain on the bottom. So these pumps do not hold much oil and they fill kinda slow.So take the dome thing out and fill till it runs out the middle level screw with 15/40 engine oil. hopefully this will take care of it.
what poking around on that machine I found is that the clutch/brake/steering box must by dry if a oil seal has failed and oils have contaminated the discs a power to the tracks problem will happen. I have never worked on these shuttle machines.
take it to napa back in the day they could match stuff like that,I assume if there is not jerks behind the counter they still do.just make sure you keep the same or real close to the suggested pressure rating of the cap as the chinese radiators are thin. If you have a problem loosing coolant thru the overflow ,it might be a good time to look into a coolant recovery bottle if you have room.
the only down side of propane is the run time is less compaired 20 lb bottle to full tank gas because they do not develop the same power as regular gas . but there is a lota plus’s for propane.
thec only thing I would suggest is when you place the new glow plugs put some never sieze on the threads. hopefully yours will come out easily. this is not a tuff repair usally.
yeah what could it hurt if you can get to the linkage just before it goes into the trans. disconnect it and then see if you can use some leverage to get the shift shaft to budge, also I would lubricate when it goes into the gear case housing. just only use a reasonable amount of force to get it to move.
I do not believe that a wear in period is necessary , it should seal right from the beginning. unless maybe a heavy fibered grease was used to lube things up for fitting seal. but a short use should have the seal lips to shaft mated.
I assume that you have felt the shaft and there are no edges or grooves that are tearing the seals. And I also assume that you are lubricating the seal and shaft before installing seal.
normally the open side with the spring around the seal lips will go towards the oil side of the case , and I would say the washer would then go on then the lift arm. This is what I would assume.
well with the tank repair everything worked out ok , been a few days and I see no further leaks . I must have brazed up a dozen pinholes. All went well with lining the tank with rede kote looks like very good adhesion to the sides and bottom. So hopefully this will be the first and last time tank repair.
