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yeah, look at it while it is running and then see how to minimize and excess vibrations. I would think one cross brace should do it. Try to get as close to the end of the arm as you can and go diagonal to the other hood hinge area if you feel it is needed. The extra metal will give you another ground path also which is a good thing.
looks good but I would not wait to long on the loose bolts I have read on this forum about bolts backing off and stripping out threads and wallowing out things. also you might be able to salvage the clutch and pressure plate if not to soaked with oil and reuse. I would clean as best as I could and keep anyway as spare if you go new.
you can pull off the power out off of the key switch go to the power in on the gauge, then to the power out on the gauge go to where you took the wire off the key switch, but may I suggest use a volt meter it can be used on any wire the key switch controls in the normal running position.
the only thing I will add is that those fuel lines need to be flushed again, things should flow much easier with the plugged screens out. The key here is to take your time getting things loosened up. and maybe you will get lucky.
I think you should be good to go once you are able to get out . I have reshaped brushes to make them work in things they were not designed to work in before, if you do go down that road carbon is soft so go slow when modifying brush to fit.
I agree about adding a mechanical gauge and keeping it on the tractor , I would think that it will be either 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch pipe. As for the oil pressure adjuster it is on the side of the oil filter housing and is covered by a acorn nut , I would not fool around with it until you verify your readings with the mech. gauge. I put one in that reads psi cause I am used to looking at that scale. To me the metric measurement is a bit vague.
could you have the clutch disc reversed and may be the pilot bearing is not right, is the throw out bearing right these are guesses. can you tell where the interference is?
not that I am aware of, remember the clutch alignment tool just centers the clutch disc in the pressure plate and flywheel and then gets removed before trans. gets mounted and there should not be any slop in the input shaft for the trans. making it any harder than it is to get assembled. From the ones I have done tractors are easier to reassemble than cars ,parts are just heavier.
