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the only thing I will add is that those fuel lines need to be flushed again, things should flow much easier with the plugged screens out. The key here is to take your time getting things loosened up. and maybe you will get lucky.
I think you should be good to go once you are able to get out . I have reshaped brushes to make them work in things they were not designed to work in before, if you do go down that road carbon is soft so go slow when modifying brush to fit.
I agree about adding a mechanical gauge and keeping it on the tractor , I would think that it will be either 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch pipe. As for the oil pressure adjuster it is on the side of the oil filter housing and is covered by a acorn nut , I would not fool around with it until you verify your readings with the mech. gauge. I put one in that reads psi cause I am used to looking at that scale. To me the metric measurement is a bit vague.
could you have the clutch disc reversed and may be the pilot bearing is not right, is the throw out bearing right these are guesses. can you tell where the interference is?
not that I am aware of, remember the clutch alignment tool just centers the clutch disc in the pressure plate and flywheel and then gets removed before trans. gets mounted and there should not be any slop in the input shaft for the trans. making it any harder than it is to get assembled. From the ones I have done tractors are easier to reassemble than cars ,parts are just heavier.
just as a side note my glow plugs work much better now there must have been a resistance fault in the old switch I changed out.
if you have somebody that you can trust you could drag it behind a truck on a long chain so not put excess wear on starter , use hi range and a upper gear , but go easy on grass. that will also move engine oil around pretty well before it lights off. whatever you do have fun
yeah I went the other way I was having trouble with the starter so I added a relay to take the amp draw off the switch and put the load closer to the battery. I do not understand what wiring standards the Chinese use but they need to change it. To small of wire for the amp loads they are designed to run.
well I switched out the switch and it is not ideal but doable . The switch is labeled it has a heater section and it does it is just that it is only hot when it is in the start mode. I did not want that. So my tractor has the lights wired threw the accessories part of the circuit not off the switch directly. So I added a start button to the light portion of the switch so when I move the key to the lights on position I can then use the push switch to heat the glow plugs, works well, just a little more modification that I thought I would have to do, but the switch is rated at 35 amps so I think it should work out . Oh I had to add the button because the heaters would not turn off without interrupting the circuit just in case you were wondering.
