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yeah I went the other way I was having trouble with the starter so I added a relay to take the amp draw off the switch and put the load closer to the battery. I do not understand what wiring standards the Chinese use but they need to change it. To small of wire for the amp loads they are designed to run.
well I switched out the switch and it is not ideal but doable . The switch is labeled it has a heater section and it does it is just that it is only hot when it is in the start mode. I did not want that. So my tractor has the lights wired threw the accessories part of the circuit not off the switch directly. So I added a start button to the light portion of the switch so when I move the key to the lights on position I can then use the push switch to heat the glow plugs, works well, just a little more modification that I thought I would have to do, but the switch is rated at 35 amps so I think it should work out . Oh I had to add the button because the heaters would not turn off without interrupting the circuit just in case you were wondering.
what I found was 450 kg. which is right at 1000 lbs . But I would say you will need weight on 3 pt. to keep rear wheels on ground if you pick up max. load. that is a WAG though.
yeah I though that it was cheap enough why fool around with a 16 year old switch, I will let you know how easy the change out goes. and where I got it from.
yeah being cheap I tried that first and it still does not return as I would like it , so out it goes. I sure do not want it to stick and not turn off the starter and the wife not notice until she sees smoke. yeah the new switch was less than 20 bucks with shipping.
got the new style regulator installed and works perfect it is epoxy poured instead of just a pressed together seal so maybe it will last longer. I noticed that the start switch is very sluggish returning to the run position after the engine start is used . I seen that the ford tractor d5nn11n501a switch has been suggested as a replacement has anyone had experience using that switch over the OEM and what do you think and any suggestions? thanks Dave
I agree with moving suggestions if a larger machine is unavailable. a tracked front loader machine would be best. If the skid method is used you might need to use a push and pull idea one to keep it moving the other to keep it from moving to fast as a brake .. good luck
I guess people are not breaking stuff like they used to, maybe we have gotten a lot smarter! hahahahaha
