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still a compression check would be your best move, it should not make any difference but engine oil for these is 15/40. how many hours are on the machine? You never know maybe it was not broke in properly , just thinking of this take a compression reading then run it hard within reason for 5hrs or so , make sure it gets to a good operating temp. 80 c or 180 f let cool off and take another reading and see if the rings seated any better. also check the oil in the injection pump, that gets over looked often. good luck
makes you wonder why they did that once in place where is it gonna go? just need enough tension to make the bearing spin in place.
I have a 50 hp foton and a 20 hp dong feng , I do not believe there are any zerks on my rear ends but I am gonna look. wow!
you might want to put wedges between the axle housing and the rear end , the more slender the better and tap them as you are using the slide hammer be careful not to mar the mating surfaces to much, file flat if you distort where the gasket goes.
maybe you could try a coupla c clamps on the housing and slide hammer and a extra set of hands . hopefully the bearing did not seize to the axle. good luck
good to hear you got the problem figured out , hope the new fix is better than the screen that was from the factory. A lot of people have had issues with them.
I know I would not have made it like that,, but I have two Chinese tractors each with about 1000 hrs. on them and I have not had those issues with the drive. All I can say is to look at it and make a judgement on what can be done to make it better , so let me ask this was that your binding issue, I assume it was. And try to remember not to run in 4 wheel drive on pavement, I think it makes it a design problem worse . later on
the guy who used to hang out here who is the dozer expert left, But if I remember those clutches are dry type correct? and I guess remove the floor plates and follow the linkages if you are lucky there will be a inspection cover. I had a dozer once but is was way different than what you have. good luck
I think I would disconnect the drive shaft, that will separate the trans from the front end , no sense opening the wrong thing, also people have had issues with the drive shaft ends( they are not u-joints) , yes their balls fell out. some people redesigned the joint using what I do not remember to provide better engagement so it would not be a ongoing problem. I believe the joint is the weak point vs. they gearing ,but anything can break. let us know what you find.
