DavidPrivett

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  • in reply to: JInma 284 Rear axle housing removal #49247
    DavidPrivett
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      you might want to put wedges between the axle housing and the rear end , the more slender the better and tap them as you are using the slide hammer be careful not to mar the mating surfaces to much, file flat if you distort where the gasket goes.

      in reply to: JInma 284 Rear axle housing removal #49246
      DavidPrivett
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        maybe you could try a coupla c clamps on the housing and slide hammer  and a extra set of hands . hopefully the bearing did not seize to the axle. good luck

        in reply to: jinma 254 loses power after 1 hr running #49242
        DavidPrivett
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          good to hear you got the problem figured out , hope the new fix is better than the screen that was from the factory. A lot of people have had issues with them.

          in reply to: can we change the yellow color #49241
          DavidPrivett
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            ouch, but I must admit I do not care for it either. But I have tolerated worse.

            in reply to: Jinma 284 Front Axle Schmatic #49237
            DavidPrivett
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              I know I would not have made it like that,, but I have two Chinese tractors each with about 1000 hrs. on  them and I have not had those issues with the drive. All I can say is to look at it and make a judgement on what can be done to make it better , so let me ask this was that your binding issue, I assume it was. And try to remember not to run in 4 wheel drive on pavement, I think it makes it a design problem worse  . later on

              in reply to: 1995 turning clutch on small dozer #49234
              DavidPrivett
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                the guy who used to hang out here who is the dozer expert left, But if I remember those clutches are dry type correct? and I guess remove the floor plates and follow the linkages if you are lucky there will be a inspection cover. I had a dozer once but is was way different than what you have. good luck

                in reply to: Jinma 284 Front Axle Schmatic #49232
                DavidPrivett
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                  I think I would disconnect the drive  shaft, that will separate the trans from the front end , no sense opening the wrong thing, also people have had issues with the drive shaft ends( they are not u-joints) , yes their balls fell out. some people redesigned the joint using what I do not remember to provide better engagement so it would not be a ongoing problem. I believe the joint is the weak point vs. they gearing ,but anything can break. let us know what you find.

                  DavidPrivett
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                    If there has been no deadheading of the pump, maybe just to be on the safe side work in a gauge to monitor the pressure on the new pump. People have had issues with the quick connects in the past causing problems, maybe a partial restriction is at work here? maybe also over pressure bypass issue.

                    in reply to: PTO not disengaging #49224
                    DavidPrivett
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                      before you get to carried away check the lever on the pto for damaged or sheared roll pins. and as far as I know all the hydro systems are self priming , it might take a min. or two.  , but the pto is not powered by the hydros it s power comes at the first let off of the clutch pedal to get what ever spinning before the tractor gets power to the wheels.

                      in reply to: Foton 704 Radiator Cap #49221
                      DavidPrivett
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                        I agree these radiators are thin so to much pressure trying to keep the anti-freeze in the radiator will make it split, I to added a recovery tank and kept the pressure low.

                      Viewing 10 posts - 251 through 260 (of 1,071 total)