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I would put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the machine to verify the tractor electric gauge are correct. I think ranch hand tractor parts in texas might be able to help you out with the head gasket. If not a web search you should be able to find one.
I have had them break also just as you described, the tractor guy in town gave me some that are used on a ford tractor, do not remember which model . It has been years and have not had a issue since. So just shop around and I think you can find a better than factory replacement spring.
I do not have a jinma, but both of my other china tractors (dong feng and foton) have filter screen housing under the floor boards remember to open up those if your has one, I would think that they will be the lowest point for the hydro system so fluid should drain well from there. then again if your has one. If I remember right the jinma uses a common sump for trans. , power steering and hydros?
the guy who ran this site, his name is to the best I know Hal,I have not heard anything since a site refresh was done awhile ago.
well one advantage at a volt meter over a amp meter the volt meter can be wired anywhere that is hot when the key switch is in the run position. but if I remember correctly when I took the amp meter out, the two wires it went to I put together and spliced the volt meter with them and hooked up the gauges light to the existing gauge light hot and added a better ground. but I will say that the gauge does pulse quite a bit with engine rpm and seems worse when there is no electrical load on it. Just adding a small 2 amp draw fan I hooked to the rops to blow down on the driver seems to take a lot of the pulsing out. I think you are getting close to whipping this problem.
let me say that it is possible that what I have written about will not do you any good if indeed the starter is bad, but will make the new starter work better and possibly last longer, also as old as the tractor is at this point maybe some light lube in the moving starter parts might help too, it could be dragging causing issues.
yeah the wire from the battery to the starter lenght is kinda determines where you can put the relay ( that is if you do not replace it). So if you can find a empty threaded bolt hole that you can mount the starter relay to that the wire will make also , that will be your ground to the base of the relay. I did not have this option I actually hose clamped the relay to the starter. and ran a wire from the base of the relay to the block for the ground. and get some connectors and battery wire that match or are a larger gauge wire that was used with the starter and go between the relay and starter . hook up the small wire that comes from the key switch to the starter off and put it on the small post of the relay. that should do it. that solved all my starting issues for many years until the key switch went bad 2 years ago. that style relay would work but look for one with a higher amp rating if you can find one .
I have seen that the starters on the 200 series are wired thru the key switch and that just adds to much resistance into the circuit that uses to small of gauge wire anyway. what I did was to add a starter relay to the starter. real easy just get a old school ford type take the battery lead to it and another lead to the starter where you removed the wire you moved to the relay, take the small wire and put it on the small post of the relay. where you put the key ibn the start mode it will activate the relay and put battery power to the switch. and make sure you have a good ground to the relay. should be good to good.
