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I would go by the dipstick on oil capacity if it looks like the original one , the engine might be different that the model your reference manual has listed so the listed capacities might be off. I would skip the motor treatments for oil . Maybe power source (diesel kleen)fuel conditioner though.
My 50 hp foton tractor(quanchi engine) has a oil dipstick that give’s bad readings if just pulled out and read. To get a correct reading you must pull it out wipe it off and then replace and pull and read, even if cold and has not run for days. I have no idea why I assume the dipstick tube is like that, but it is something you might want to try.
So I would assume that you have a common sump tractor one hydro system for the tractor ( back hoe separate system aw-46 there ). So you could use the heavier weight oil like universal tractor fluid (front axle not included 80/90 there). In real cold weather you might notice steering not right until fluid warms up a bit. But for the gears you need oil that will protect under load and give the hyrdos good flow.
well you need to know where your pumps are ,manf. of tractors each have their own ideas of how to do things. your 3 point hitch most likely has a pump in the rear end of the tractor for the lift so if it does aw-46. I would think would be a good choice. Power steering systems can run off a common sump or have it’s own hydraulic source, you will have to check on what you have. I would say that as far as the backhoe goes aw-46 should be fine , but there again does it have it’s own tank or does it run off the tractors hydro supply ? As far as the loader goes I have seen them with tanks mounted on the sides of a tractor for the oil storage but I do not think you will have that. You need to see if the loader runs off the tractors 3 point pump or a separate pump is used and where the oil comes from. you need a manual for the tractor and study it so good decisions can be made.
I use 15/40 engine oil , my logic on that is the pumps on engines the are lubed off the engines pressurized lube systems get 15/40 soooo.
engine 15/40 diesel oil , front axle 80/90 gl-4 to be safe will not harm yellow metals(gl-5 can be used if formulated not using chlorine) trans all gear 80/90 gl-4 , rear end with hydro pump aw-46 and power steering if has own sump aw-46. so basically if it is gear 80/90 anything hydro aw-46 will get you working as best as I know.
well when you remove the old fuel filter empty it in a clear glass container a look for sediment and water ,hopefully you will not see either, but when you have the filter off open the fuel tank petcock briefly and make sure there is a good stream of fuel flowing out, if not check the filter screen that is hooked to the top of the petcock inside the tank, remove as much fuel as you can before removing though. ( do this where you want to kill weeds) as for the injection pump some have small oil reservoir and some are feed by the engines pressurized oil lube system, this needs to be checked out to see which one you have.
something makes me think that your engine is not making the power that it should, have you gone thru the fuel system and looked for restrictions in fuel flow?
I am asking cause it was not covered by you ,what happens if you use low range 4 th gear, that is what I use to mow with on my 50 hp foton with 5 ft ruff cut mower and my 20 hp dong feng running a 5 ft. finish mower. on semi-flat ground. and I keep my rpm around 1800- 2000
the next time you run into a polarity issue use a meter dc will read correct if wired correctly it will show negative voltage if reversed, so them you know to flip connections that need to be made. digital meters are good for this the old analog with needle movements no so much, I have seen tweaked needles from slamming backwards.
