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the next time you run into a polarity issue use a meter dc will read correct if wired correctly it will show negative voltage if reversed, so them you know to flip connections that need to be made. digital meters are good for this the old analog with needle movements no so much, I have seen tweaked needles from slamming backwards.
I suppose that with the return line a cooler could be added. normally unless something that is not in the hi-flow volume area does not need them.
have you cleaned the radiator fins? do you have a battery in front of the radiator? are you running anti-freeze or plain water? is there a thermostat in the cooling system? but engine heat is not gonna effect hydro’s normally.
it should not cause a problem it is not hydro operated, it has it’s own clutch so unless it is slipping it should not be making any heat, though it is the same oil if you have a common sump tractor which only has one pump, I thought we determined that?
the oil weight is right, the only thing I can think of is that when the oil heats and thins it starts to bypass to the point that it does not make the pressure that it takes to make things operate, did you put a pressure gauge somewhere? It is kinda pointing to the pump but there might be another cause of either lack of pressure because of not pumping correctly or some kinda bypassing going on.
I would say that whatever you do make it as easy as possible to work on for future problems that you might have to do. In other words get as much standard fittings and hoses as you can without a bunch of adapters.
well I think you got it, it fooled me I was thinking it was gonna be the steering box by the way it was described acting. you are better off it being the cylinder!
is your steering cylinder in front of the front axle or behind? that will change how the cylinder fill direction works.
