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yeah the wire from the battery to the starter lenght is kinda determines where you can put the relay ( that is if you do not replace it). So if you can find a empty threaded bolt hole that you can mount the starter relay to that the wire will make also , that will be your ground to the base of the relay. I did not have this option I actually hose clamped the relay to the starter. and ran a wire from the base of the relay to the block for the ground. and get some connectors and battery wire that match or are a larger gauge wire that was used with the starter and go between the relay and starter . hook up the small wire that comes from the key switch to the starter off and put it on the small post of the relay. that should do it. that solved all my starting issues for many years until the key switch went bad 2 years ago. that style relay would work but look for one with a higher amp rating if you can find one .
I have seen that the starters on the 200 series are wired thru the key switch and that just adds to much resistance into the circuit that uses to small of gauge wire anyway. what I did was to add a starter relay to the starter. real easy just get a old school ford type take the battery lead to it and another lead to the starter where you removed the wire you moved to the relay, take the small wire and put it on the small post of the relay. where you put the key ibn the start mode it will activate the relay and put battery power to the switch. and make sure you have a good ground to the relay. should be good to good.
well years ago I did communicate with the moderator,so at one time he did exist. with ai going everywhere it is gonna be tuff knowing what is what and who is who. I think there is high level people who want it that way too.
If I remember right the guy that has this sites name is Hal and he might be the only person at this point.I do not know.
I assume that you have asked about when hour wise maint. is to be preformed as a schedule? after the first maint. at 25 to 50 hrs. of clock time I try to do every 200 after unless something needs to be adressed before time. as a coolant leak and I have to drain the system then do it early just write it down so maybe it can be skipped on the next service. If this is not what you are asking please give more detail as to what your question is.
I have seen 3 different references to head torque specs for the ty395e engine 67-81 ft(to me to low) lbs and 89-100 ft lbs(seems reasonable) and 110-125 ft lbs(to high) so I suggest to call a parts dealer here in the states and ask what they use, and use your best judgement.
I agree, if you have access to a diesel engine compression tester and or a leak down tester to test the cylinders that should give you a idea of the cylinders involved. If you are not aware these engines require a second head torquing after 10 or so hrs of running time. and to have a machine shop look at the head for flatness is a good idea. If that is not possible a machinist grade straight edge can give you a idea if you are ok.
