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so I assume that the feed to the relay has been upsized and comes from the battery or hot side of starter motor relay and the heat position on the key switch activates the relay.
the voltage drop is because of the under sized wire that they use building the tractors, some have wired in relays to overcome the voltage drop much like with the starter wiring issues there are. I did the relay on the starter, I do not need the glow plugs much so I did not do them, I would if I lived further north. I am in s.e. tn. I would think if you do put in a relay watch the time you use them more amps will go to them making more heat quicker. use # 10 ga. wire.
I think I would try to wire without the shunt and just look for the voltage readout to light up with the correct voltage that you are putting in.
if they are both 2008 I would look at how they have been worked and used if one is in good shape I would assume it has had better care than one that has been beat up. talk to the owners and ask about maint. that has been done or not done, of course look at the fluids and make sure they are without water. feel the clutch travel too. but buying used is always a roll of the dice. but there is bad buys even new. I know it is not the same tractor that you are looking at but I have a 2006 4 cyl. 50 hp. foton and it is been a good machine.
Let us know what you think of it when you get it going. I have thought about those but instead just used a digital voltmeter without the amp display ,and been fairly happy with them but have had some failures.
3 ohms is what I read in his description , I think .3 ohms would be to little amount for a resistive heater coil , would lead me to think a internal short. But 3 ohms is what he wrote earlier.
there should be a knob or hand wheel near the seat that controls the amount of falling speed on the three pt. system. lightly snug it up and back it off a few turns , maybe you will get lucky.
