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you can not really go by outside dimensions except for the rod, all the seals will most likely be metric if you are having it repaired. you have the needed dimensions just to buy new cylinders ,except the hole size on each end and make sure the hoses and the cylinder threads are the same.
I have no knowledge of that engine, but it has to be timed so the engine and pump are on the same page so to speak, I do know that. It is just how to do it without pulling the front cover of the engine off to see the timing marks on the crank, cam, and pump. Some engines use a pin that is installed to keep everything in one place during the pump change out. keep us posted as to what you find out.
yes it does it is 20 weight, I think it is a little light for gears in hot climates but winter coming up so you should be ok for awhile.
no universal tractor fluid is its own thing, it is designed to be able to operate in hydro and geared appilactions and in the summer it is fine, but in the winter in the hydro systems it is to thick , mostly in power steering systems. most call it just UTF and forget I mentioned anything about 140 wt. oil just do not use it. Unless you have a severely leaking gear box , as a temp. fix only till repair is done.
front end 4 wheel drive gears and geared transmissions 75/90 or simular i would not use 140 wt . oil. , If it has a hydro pump here in southern Tn. I use aw -46 in lift systems and if has seperate power steering resivour I use aw-32 . I have found that universal tractor fluid here is to heavy in winter. just based on my uses. 15/40 in all my diesel engines.
well I have a 2005 dong feng 204a ,it is close to what you have but I do not think it will exactly cross over. I believe that the voltage reg. has three wires. I did replace it several years ago as the orginal was overcharging, new one has a red light on it that indicates it is powered, why I have no clue, but it works well enough.
there could be a problem with the alternator diodes causing the voltage reg. to burn up. I would suggest taking it to a alternator shop that does rebuilds ask them to test it and ask what voltage regulator they would suggest off the shelf. I am sure they can also tell you about wiring it correctly too. let me add that bad grounds can ruin these electronic voltage regulators , they get power in but can not run it off causing too much heat.
I have a 2006 foton ft504a ,do not have service manual either so if you come up with anything ,please post. maybe you will get lucky and a clutch adjustment is all you need, check those pedal pins too.
I assume that when you energize the coils it makes a big difference sound wise as it engages, not sluggish anymore.
I would look at your hoses and see if there is any markings about pressure marked on them, they should be rated higher than your working system pressures. as far as the cylinders go I would take them to a hydro shop and ask for a estimate on a rebuild, they can measure them and get approperate seal kits usally.
