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remember the new clutch will wear in and need to be readjusted, you can not set and forget
well have you had time to get into it yet? just curious
never mind I see it now duh stupid me
some of these tractors that have a shuttle shifts seem bad about shearing a pins in the levers that change tractor directions but now that I think of it that would not be in your case. But look at all the pedal connections to make sure, I think no two were made the same. What kinda tractor and hp is it anyway?
I think you are correct it needs a clutch as I was watching the video the pedal position when the tractor starts to move is almost fully released ,it should be engaging sooner. Does it have a 2 stage clutch and does the pto operate normally? You checked all the pedals roll pins right.
what the hell happened to the post
find a big shop and give them a call with the sizes (metric measurements) they can <span style=”display: inline !important; float: none; background-color: transparent; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia,’Times New Roman’,’Bitstream Charter’,Times,serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 24px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; word-wrap: break-word;”> ship the </span>parts to you if they are able to cross them over or send them the cylinder should be cheaper than 350.
you might want to try a aerosol can of dry graphite(not messy) or fifth wheel grease(messy but should hold up)
should have wrote earlier that grease would be ok in that joint but never seize would be best so this should not happen again.
a flail mower has less distance front to back so it should work easier on that type ground than a finishing mower or ruff cut rotary mower. and we have learned to adjust to the site with time.
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