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if you need to before you try a die hit the first thread with a triangular file to give the die a place to start.. and good going on getting it loose.
I am assuming that you are writing about the golden looking pin, how about welding on a eyelet on it putting a hydraulic puller or a cable come along on it. Go to something that will not move with the puller, jam the bucket in the ground set the brake do whatever it takes to get the tractor where it will not move. Tension the pullers as much as you can then heat and beat the pin . A impact hammer might help if you can come up with one. I once pulled off a frozen axle bearing with a backhoe, sometimes you just gotta do things that aint normal.
ok try to get any load off the pins that you can and heat still can be used and is there enough room and is there something you can hook a 2 jaw gear puller on and use it to push the pins out? Does the joints that the pins are in have grease fittings ? there are tools that force oil thru grease fittings to loosen them up when the grease gets hard so new grease can be added. How many pins are stuck and where are they on the loader?
well there is heat or a long wrench (I use a 600 lbs. 3/4 drive torque wrench it is like over 3 ft. long) what is good about the torque wrench is you can monitor how much force you are putting on the bolt by setting the clicker. Or the old heavy duty impact wrench and hope you do not twist them off. One good thing if they are holding the loader on they should be a hardened bolt .
The cap I do not know exactly what it should be but they are low in pressure 6 lbs sounds right. These radiators are thin but mine are at least brass so they can be fixed if they crack(and mine have once on the fill neck). Some have put coolant recovery bottles on the tractors which is a good idea if you have a good area to put it.
I would ask if you can up grade the size of the rear wheel weights and the front suitcase weights and go up and down not across 45 degrees and not wet either. but I do think ag tires would be best. If you can I would go up at least one step up in h.p. to do what you describe. I have some land that is a little less angle and run a 50 h.p. and it goes under load in some conditions.
I think the position of the plunger does not make the engine not run (but it should be screwed down when not in use) I have heard of the interior of the Chinese hoses to breaking down . I have a 20 hp df tractor and the inj. pump on it has a oil reservoir in the pump, has this oil level been checked? It does not hold much and is slow to fill .15w-40 Engine oil is ok to use in it. But back to the hoses could you have a vacuum leak , so the suction from the manual pump is not overcoming the leak and not priming? Or maybe there is something with the plunger since it will not lock down. Let gravity help you find where fuel is and where it is not go from connection to connection . Did you prefill the fuel filter before replacing it , it will take a ton of pumping to fill it if you did not fill it.
Had another thought make sure that the fuel shut off that is used to kill the engine is not stuck closed. I was told it is good if once you kill the engine to return the fuel shut off to the run position , reason if the fuel has some moisture in it could cause rust to form and not allow the rail to let the fuel to flow. You might want to loosen the fuel line at the injector and turn the engine over to make sure there is fuel to that point.
with starting fluid a diesel should do something unless your compression is to low, or the timing is off. does yours have a compression release that could be stuck open . If you can warm the whole engine , if things are a little off that should make it easier to start till things get loosened up.
