DavidPrivett

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  • in reply to: Jinma 254 Clutch (yes another clutch thread) #47902
    DavidPrivett
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      I think you are correct it needs a clutch as I was watching the video the pedal position when the tractor starts to move is almost fully released ,it should be engaging sooner. Does it have a 2 stage clutch and does the pto operate normally? You checked all the pedals roll pins right.

      in reply to: JW 03 Backhoe boom cylinder seals #47889
      DavidPrivett
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        what the hell happened to the post

        in reply to: JW 03 Backhoe boom cylinder seals #47888
        DavidPrivett
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          find a big shop and give them a call with the sizes (metric measurements) they can <span style=”display: inline !important; float: none; background-color: transparent; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia,’Times New Roman’,’Bitstream Charter’,Times,serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 24px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; word-wrap: break-word;”> ship the </span>parts  to you if they are able to cross them over or send them the cylinder should be cheaper than 350.

          in reply to: koyker 140 #47887
          DavidPrivett
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            you might want to try a aerosol can of dry graphite(not messy) or fifth wheel grease(messy but should hold up)

            in reply to: koyker 140 #47881
            DavidPrivett
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              should have wrote earlier that grease would be ok in that joint but never seize would be best so this should not happen again.

              in reply to: Flail mower #47878
              DavidPrivett
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                a flail mower has less distance front to back so it should work easier on that type ground than a finishing mower or ruff cut rotary mower. and we have learned to adjust to the site  with time.

                in reply to: koyker 140 #47877
                DavidPrivett
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                  if you need to before you try a die hit the first thread with a triangular file to give the die a place to start.. and good going on getting it loose.

                  in reply to: koyker 140 #47863
                  DavidPrivett
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                    I am assuming that you are writing about the golden looking pin, how about welding on a eyelet on it putting a hydraulic puller or a cable come along on it. Go to something that will not move with the puller, jam the bucket in the ground set the brake do whatever it takes to get the tractor where it will not move. Tension the pullers as much as you can then heat and beat the pin . A impact hammer might help if you can come up with one. I once pulled off  a frozen axle bearing with a backhoe, sometimes you just gotta do things that aint normal.

                    in reply to: koyker 140 #47859
                    DavidPrivett
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                      ok try to get any load off the pins that you can and heat still can be used and is there enough room and is there something you can hook a  2 jaw gear puller on and use it to push the pins out? Does the joints that the pins are in have grease fittings ? there are tools that force oil thru grease fittings to loosen them up when the grease gets hard so new grease can be added.  How many pins are stuck and where are they on the loader?

                      in reply to: koyker 140 #47857
                      DavidPrivett
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                        well there is heat or a long wrench (I use a 600 lbs. 3/4 drive   torque wrench it is like over 3 ft. long) what is good about the torque wrench is you can monitor how much force you are putting on the bolt by setting the clicker. Or the old heavy duty impact wrench and hope you do not twist them off. One good thing if they are holding the loader on they should be a hardened bolt .

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