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The cap I do not know exactly what it should be but they are low in pressure 6 lbs sounds right. These radiators are thin but mine are at least brass so they can be fixed if they crack(and mine have once on the fill neck). Some have put coolant recovery bottles on the tractors which is a good idea if you have a good area to put it.
I would ask if you can up grade the size of the rear wheel weights and the front suitcase weights and go up and down not across 45 degrees and not wet either. but I do think ag tires would be best. If you can I would go up at least one step up in h.p. to do what you describe. I have some land that is a little less angle and run a 50 h.p. and it goes under load in some conditions.
I think the position of the plunger does not make the engine not run (but it should be screwed down when not in use) I have heard of the interior of the Chinese hoses to breaking down . I have a 20 hp df tractor and the inj. pump on it has a oil reservoir in the pump, has this oil level been checked? It does not hold much and is slow to fill .15w-40 Engine oil is ok to use in it. But back to the hoses could you have a vacuum leak , so the suction from the manual pump is not overcoming the leak and not priming? Or maybe there is something with the plunger since it will not lock down. Let gravity help you find where fuel is and where it is not go from connection to connection . Did you prefill the fuel filter before replacing it , it will take a ton of pumping to fill it if you did not fill it.
Had another thought make sure that the fuel shut off that is used to kill the engine is not stuck closed. I was told it is good if once you kill the engine to return the fuel shut off to the run position , reason if the fuel has some moisture in it could cause rust to form and not allow the rail to let the fuel to flow. You might want to loosen the fuel line at the injector and turn the engine over to make sure there is fuel to that point.
with starting fluid a diesel should do something unless your compression is to low, or the timing is off. does yours have a compression release that could be stuck open . If you can warm the whole engine , if things are a little off that should make it easier to start till things get loosened up.
I think not, I do not know of any of these type clutch’s that where the clutch fingers are replaced in place on whatever machine they used on. They are usually riveted in place by the manf. or reman.shop. hello BOB what you know?
I have two Chinese tractors the 50 hp foton has its own pump and fluid reservoir for the power steering. The dong feng runs off a common sump that has the three point lift and power steering and a loader if it was equipped .So you need to figure out what you have. But to me that looks like the engine oil fill.
have the disconnects been connected in place since it last worked? If they have I would assume they are plumbed properly. Does the backhoe run off the loader pump? Or does it have its own off the pto .
I would start looking at the quick connects if it has them and the control valve ,does the engine sound like it is under a load when you activate the joystick?
I would say that what ever the positions are arranged on the switch(you can work it out what is best for you to remember) you need a 4 position switch or a 3 with a separate momentary button switch for the glow plugs and add a relay for them. the one Bob showed earlier in the post would be what it needs. but a relay can be added to relieve the amp draw to it to make it be less prone to breakage.
