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well got the engine back in . does anyone know about what types of oil go the two side gear, chain drives and what would be ok in the hydros? I think I am going to have to take it to bobcat to figure out what model it is. But on a chance anyone might have dealt with and has knowledge of around 1984 gas model I thought I would ask around.
I would go with documented chart of metric bolt hardness to torque values. I can not believe you could go wrong with that. now watch me be wrong.
that is what I did first it made them squirt off , the champions porcelain is slightly tapered . The autolites are not so changing the plugs and limiting the pressure on the rubber I guess helped If I remember right the original plug boots , or caps were hard like bakeolite .
Thanks but I ended up heating the boots I had with a heat gun and jamming the plug in it and letting it cool , there is that fine edge heating and burning rubber , got lucky hopefully they will not get hard and brittle soon.
no I overlooked them, yeah to me it looks like bearings and a crank possibly. The scoring I can see by a dry start but the pitting makes me think corrosion. So maybe oil with a lot of water and ran and maybe let sit awhile before something was done with it. just a guess.
One thing I forgot to mention is do make sure that the clutch is adjusted correctly . I assume it is 2 stage. So make sure you use the right 2 stage settings.
Before I went crazy with taking it down where is your oil pressure readings if they are normal they are normal , unless you are bored I would not go down that splitting road. 189 hrs is not much even semi-neglected. The oil valleys in the head look clean enough in the pictures. At the most drop the front driveshaft and pull the oil pan. look in there for excess metals (there will be some with the poor block manufacturing clean up ) and pull and mic. main and a rod bearings . Good luck
Since you are pretty far up north , Maybe instead of the decompression lever a lower hose coolant heater should be looked at for a ease of starting method. They are pretty easy to do. And in my experience with it only needs a hour to do its job. If you know when you are going to use the tractor I have used a timer to activate so it is ready to go at the set time.
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY the decompression release was not furnished on some of these tractors with shuttle shift because of a linkage conflict( the thread was on the old site maybe two upgrades ago). Since you are the new owner I would retorque the head and reset the valves unless you can verify that it has been done before.
I think all farm tractors have a hi – low transfer case , Some tractors do not use decompression to help start the engine and the shift pattern can be anything . Is the tractor equipped with a shuttle shift? That is where you chose a gear for your ground speed and the shuttle changes from forward to reverse.
