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Before I went crazy with taking it down where is your oil pressure readings if they are normal they are normal , unless you are bored I would not go down that splitting road. 189 hrs is not much even semi-neglected. The oil valleys in the head look clean enough in the pictures. At the most drop the front driveshaft and pull the oil pan. look in there for excess metals (there will be some with the poor block manufacturing clean up ) and pull and mic. main and a rod bearings . Good luck
Since you are pretty far up north , Maybe instead of the decompression lever a lower hose coolant heater should be looked at for a ease of starting method. They are pretty easy to do. And in my experience with it only needs a hour to do its job. If you know when you are going to use the tractor I have used a timer to activate so it is ready to go at the set time.
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY the decompression release was not furnished on some of these tractors with shuttle shift because of a linkage conflict( the thread was on the old site maybe two upgrades ago). Since you are the new owner I would retorque the head and reset the valves unless you can verify that it has been done before.
I think all farm tractors have a hi – low transfer case , Some tractors do not use decompression to help start the engine and the shift pattern can be anything . Is the tractor equipped with a shuttle shift? That is where you chose a gear for your ground speed and the shuttle changes from forward to reverse.
I would think that these transmissions have straight cut gears so if one is popping out you can not have much tooth engagement. Look at your shifting forks being bent or cracked or maybe a adjuster for throw. Never had one of mine apart. So it is a guess.
check all the pins that hold the shifting levers on the drive section, they have been known to partially break giving weird issues with moving the tractors.
what I would do is use a test light or meter, ground one side of what ever you use, put the switch in the heat position and look for what terminal gets power in the heater position . Get a wire on that terminal carry it to a relay( I used a start relay off a riding lawnmower but they need a ground wire they are not self grounded thru the base) make that your power to activate the relay. Run a wire from the battery or starter and fuse or breaker it 30 amps should do it to one of the larger posts on the relay. Then take a wire form the other large post to the heater strip and you should be good to go. I would use 10 ga. wire for the large posts and I would think nothing smaller than 16 ga. for the smaller lug from the switch. You will not see a big discharge on the amp meter when heating wired like this just FYI.
it uses a common hot, all power from the switch comes from one source and switched out to what gets energy. You need to determine how the switch works as since there is no wire to the glow plug bar, did it come from the factory like that then the switch might not have a heat position. If the switch is marked on the dash that might be a good indicator as how it works . My tractor the switch turns to the left to heat. Try applying 12 volts to the glow plug bar to see if there is a current draw or a meter to ohms one side to the bar the other to ground it should read about zero ohms if one of the is working. Like in the earlier post a relay will make it heat better.
it should be on a spline , chances it is just stuck ,if I remember right there was no place for a puller I just tapped with rubber mallet from side to side till it came off. Use never seize on shaft before reinstallation of steering wheel,
