DavidPrivett

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  • DavidPrivett
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      I doubt it would make any difference but instead of breaking the fuel line at the injector do it at the pump just in case something weird is going on if nothing else seems to work. Even try loosening them all at one time briefly to see if one leaks out more than another. which will be subjective to several variances I know . but oh well.

      DavidPrivett
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        I assume you put more fuel in the tank. then look at the fuel glass bowl filter, if you have one and make sure it is clean ( look at the fuel color make sure no water is in there) It won’t hurt to drain the canister fuel filter in a glass jar and see what was in there if you do not have glass bowl. replace filter back if was clean if a mess toss out. next to reprime filter at the fuel line that goes to the injector pump crack it open(maybe a banjo fitting) then push the manual fuel pump button till comes out at pump, then crack each injector and turn over till diesel sprays out. do not overheat the starter when doing this. I am sure I forgot something  .,good luck

        in reply to: Hydraulic Oil recomendation for Foton 704 #46443
        DavidPrivett
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          I think 303 is a tranny oil with older john deere and universal can be used in common sump systems use aw 32 in lifting and steering systems .

          in reply to: tie rod ends #46432
          DavidPrivett
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            there will be a brief 2 month wait on parts for this, it is a good thing that this was not really service affecting.

            in reply to: puffs of smoke #46431
            DavidPrivett
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              take a quick look at your oil capacity level to make sure it does not have to much oil ( or other fluids that might be leaking into oil) in in crankcase and overfilling.

              in reply to: tie rod ends #46422
              DavidPrivett
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                yeah you are probably right buy new and modify, I have been thinking about getting the metric thread pitch and see if someone else make the same joints but with a different design as far as joint lube service. but that I think will be a dead end.

                in reply to: tie rod ends #46419
                DavidPrivett
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                  no ,unless I use a bit of real thin leather over the ball , I will see how long it will say tighter with the added grease. Maybe I should just order new tie rod ends, but I hate to cause I do not like the design. will have to ponder.

                  in reply to: tie rod ends #46412
                  DavidPrivett
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                    well only the dust caps are available the other parts not.so I drilled and taped the steel caps drilled the nylon upper cup to match . It only takes a half a pump of the grease gun to fill, I will order the dust caps and reassemble. It is no wonder they were starting to loosen ,dry steel ball moving on a nylon cup with no lube and no way of lubing. stupid .

                    in reply to: tie rod ends #46406
                    DavidPrivett
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                      I got the part #’s for the rebuilding the ends, I was quite surprised to see it broken down like that I just thought the tie rods ends would be sold complete. When I tear them apart I should be able to drill them somewhere on the backside and place the zerks. It will be interesting to see if the parts I need will be sold like they are shown in the book.  Three rubber seals on each side does it.

                      in reply to: Ford style ignition switch. #46400
                      DavidPrivett
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                        I assume that you made sure it was not the safety switch on the clutch pedal?

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