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oh I had a issue with my tach and it was the pickup on the bellhousing. if you want to see if your is dirty on the end look at it and screw by hand tenderly it till it contacts the flywheel and back out 1 -1/2 turns.
you say that the oil pressure relief is wide open , do you mean unrestricted ? I would think that the screw should be turned in some at least to put the spring under some tension. If you need me to I can turn mine in and count the rotations and give you a ballpark of where mine sits.
i would not worry about those readings, I have a foton ft 504a and it is pretty much the same way. you could look at the tach and if it is idleing a little low turn up the idle speed a touch. Look in the operators manual I think the suggested idle rpm is listed( it is around 750 I think). I believe that 15/40 weight oil is the suggested one to use in it, might want to change to that if using something else.
the problem with the quick connects was not that they leak , the problem is that they fall apart internally in some cases , others have stated that the chinese rubber hoses break down internally and pieces collect at the quick connect and plug the flow of the fluid. I believe that your tractor has a screen hydro filter ,I think under the floor boards? if you have not looked at it in a while it might not hurt as then you will know if there is stuff in the oil floating around. good time to check the condition of the oil too, moreso if it is stored in the weather and not under cover. but you never know it might have been air that has worked its way out since it has restored function. when it was rebuilt the oil should have been drained and changed so it really should be ok one would think.
I assume that the loader has quick connects, I would check those first. but the problem as you describe makes me think pump, unless there is air trapped in the system that it has not purged. if you can plumb in a pressure gauge somewhere that should be under pressure on start up should be helpful. does the three point lift work ,I think everything runs off one pump ,power steering does too.
if you have trouble in the future I would suggest that you pull a ground from a good point on the engine block VS. drawing a ground thru the switch , it seems to me that would add resistance in the circuit which is not wanted.
no I do not but, I think I can write it so you can understand. I will need to know something though . How many posts are on your relay 3 or 4?
just as a fyi the start circuit is the hardest thing the switch does, It will extend the life of the switch by adding a start relay to the starter solenoid so the switch carrys only the load for the relay and not the starter. And the same can be done for the glow plugs. I also believe that the start switch restricts the amount of amps the starter wants making it not engauge as it should getting the engine to the proper starting rpm , moreso when cold temps are there. Just a thought.
I can write it out what I did. I used hose clamps around the starter and attached a 3 lug ford type relay to the starter (of course you can attach some other place) . Take the battery cable off the starter motor and put it on the relay . Place a new cable to the other side of the relay to the starter where you pulled off lead. Take the wire from the starter that comes from the key switch and move it to the relays small lug. It will be better if you use some like 10 gauge wire and ground the metal relay base to the battery or engine block if you use hose clamps . This will not be necessary if you can bolt the relay to the frame . That should be good to go. hope this helps
