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yes they are a pain that way but I have done it so often now usually I know just where to go to get it running. I just remember price was the reason why I bought 2 Chinese tractors and 50 hp and a 20 hp paid less for both than for one of a name brand tractor.
maybe nothing I would first check the grounds and the battery connections , sounds like a high resistance connection(got voltage but when applying a load no amps, voltage falls). There has been problems with the key switches even new. There was some old posts about taking the glow plugs and starter off the switch and putting them on dedicated relays . Those both are good ideas even if all you do is one you will benefit .
looks like you got a engine that will power the sawmill or emergency generator you always wanted.
tsc is ok we have a store in town but to me it has gotten more for the under 10 acre crowd. I wish we had a agri suppy co. local they surround me in n.c.,s.c. and ga. but none in tn. when I go to fl. I always stop at the ga. store they have a huge inventory and good prices to.
I think your best bet is to drain off a bit of oil and look at it, 90 weight gear oil smells and looks different than hydro oil and then there is the weight difference 90 vs. 10 wt. If you need gear oil I think that gl-4 is a good choice because it is yellow metal safe. I think I am safe in saying that if you have a common sump tractor aw- 32 or aw- 46 should be safe to use, that means your trans, rear end, power steering (if you have it) and hydro system all use the same oil. The front axle should be 90 wt. engine 15-40, but this is a guess.
It might be damaged they are supposed to be set as to turn the sensor in till it touches the flywheel (engine not running) and back it out about 1 turn.
you know if you can find a single wire alt. from a boat as inboard or a I/o they are sealed as explosion proof as they work in bilges that have a potential of gas vapors. they wont put out 70 amps but I am thinking 40 amps
yes I remember those and there was not much that bracket wise you needed to add. But with the delco you need to add a I think # 6 wire to the batt. and I can not remember what they did with the sense wire. I did a 8n ford and there we added a strap from a 2 prong plug to a post which makes it charge all the time that away rpm to get the alt. to kick in are not required. That tractor is next neighbor over I can go look at it if this is the way you want to go.
well I would first look at the oil to see if it is contaminated, but you need to determine that the pump is not dead heading, there has been many problems with the factory quick disconnects and the loader joysticks, it would not hurt to have a pressure gauge mounted somewhere until the problem is corrected. I do not have a jimma so someone who has one can better tell you where it is easiest to access a point in the system.
