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ok I have heard of tractors that had conflicts in making linkages line up and work and not hooking them up. But I am pretty sure about what you are writing about as being the compression release. I suppose that once you get the valve cover off you could try to figure a way to do away with it and plug up the hole, It would make access easier in the future. Is there a bolt on the lever that you could remove then slide the valve cover to the rear over the valve release rod , it has been to long I can not remember exactly.
I assume that what you are writing about is the compression release, some tractors this is a tricky thing to remove and restore to where it needs to be. Before you start to remove it look over it closely , If I remember right the is a cotter pin that needs to be removed on a lever on the rear of the valve cover which separates the linkage from the compression releases rod that compresses the exhaust valves. I have only done this once and it has been a few years back so I hope I go it right.
I have a 20 hp dong feng and a 50 hp foton each has 3 drain points to get all the oil out of the front axle and spindle housings ,but if your oil is not contaminated I would just get out most of it and refill . Do you have a oil level weep hole? If not I was told if there is a plug on the top of the axle housing look in there and fill till the axle itself is covered , and call it good. Back to the oil I said contaminated that would include excess metal shavings. If you are unsure about the oil needed use gl-4 rated gear oil it is safe for brass and copper bushings. Some gl-5 is made with a formula which uses chlorine and it eats yellow metals.
before you do a compression test check your valve lash and if you have a compression release make sure it is fully disengaged. just another thought
the only thing that makes sense to me is that you need to do a compression test ,and since you have two engines you have a good reference point. what I am thinking that your are not compressing enough to make heat to light it off until you preheat the cylinders. If this is right it would be really tuff in winter to get it to go. I assume that you have looked at the fuel and filters and screens all is good and clean.
first look at the injector pump and locate the manual primer button , they have a spring in them so when you unscrew the button it should pop up . Fill the fuel filter with diesel and replace it to the housing bracket . Loosen a bleeder at the fuel filter housing and pump the bulb to remove air once that is done push fuel one hose at a time to the injector pump from there the engine has to be turned over to push air out of the pump and lines. Cracking the injectors lines slightly will help release air also. good luck
there has been quite a few posts on the starters not getting enough amps to turn the starter up to the speed it needs to engage the ring gear. Some people am myself have added a starter relay in the start circuit . Take the small wire from the switch and use it to pull the relay. Take the large wire off the starter put it on the relay and add a strap from the relay to the starter, this worked very well for me. You depending on the relay might have to add a ground to it. This should help keep the switch in good shape as you are not running as many amps threw it.
remember about how often you have to do this to keep the excess diesel out of the pump this will extend the life of the pump but you still have a issue that one day will have to be addressed. I believe that parts for these pumps are not available here and the pump will have to be replaced. but check as all things change. Oh and a rebuild would have to be done at a diesel shop if you could get parts unless you are very qualified.
when you have the starter out take a flashlight and look at the ring gear. If your tractor has a compression release wire it open and have someone else turn the crank to inspect whole ring gear. If no compression release you can pull glow plugs or injectors or be very very careful turning engine over with the fuel cut off (engine stop) fully engaged.
