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the only suggestions I have is to use a low gear and stay in 2 wheel drive whenever possible if the job takes a extra 4 hrs. that is less time than a tractor splitting session. but the machine can do this.
no it is not me
I do not know if it will work for you but I used a shut off from a 8n ford .It has a nice glass bowl and should last for years.
sorry about the mind fart I posted I bet you do not have any oil tank to inspect . I guess you could take the cylinders off and manually load and unload them to flush.
if you have some sort of inspection light shine it in the case wherever you have access look inside for rust if you see some there is water .I would think that if there is none the cylinders would be clean also.
if the tractor is running well try tightening any fittings or replace that injector or what ever fittings needed ,but as long as you do not mess with the injector pump I do not believe that any calibration required
I would think about a tow bar harbor freight had them I think less than 75 bucks but you would have to go slow ,wheel dia. looks a little small for ruff ground,is was that a chicken tractor/coop ?
I am not a wealth of info. on dozers but could he have placed heavier clutch pedal return springs in. On my old dozer I had one that broke at the hook. I took it and bent one of the coils out to make a hook it worked but man what a difference in felt load on the pedal,changed it out as soon as could get proper spring.
people that have shuttle shifters have had issues with roll pins ,really need more info
what you can do is to use a die grinder with a cut off wheel split the compression sleeves the banjo fitting will come out ,they are barbed replace the fuel line with a better grade and use hose clamps.
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