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October 14, 2013 at 7:55 am in reply to: 2004 jm204 will not start after fuel filter replacement #36458
if it was running well before the low fuel condition you have air in the system use the hand pump as suggested open the vent on top of the fuel filter pump till air purges out then go to the inlet of the pump repeating same method
good bye to a true bozo
if that is the only place you can feel slop replace it ,verses having them seperate later they are not expensive.
a few years ago I thought of doing this but was discouraged to do so cause of the run lenght time on the electric fan was to long,I will be courious t see how well long term this works out.
something you might want to think about ,I can not remember which dealer it was but,if your filter housing has a removeable nipple that holds the oil filter,someone makes a new one with a different thread so more common filters can be used.like I can not remember the thread size but the filter I use now is a ph8a .you can get them anywhere.really I had a housing that had a fixed nipple I bought a new housing with the removeable nipple and the adaptor so filters would be easier to find.
are you saying that and I assume that you have a 2 stage clutch with the clutch all the way in the pto spins with power not just from things spinning where there is no real power to the pto shaft. if that is what you are saying that is no pin. but I have a partial pin shear at the engagement/disengagement pto shifter where it comes in contact with the trans. housing. I used a pin inside a pin when I replaced it.
if possible use a bottom tap instead of a taper tap ,I assume that the effected threads were at the end of the bolt placing the problem at the bottom of the hole.also check the hole depth maybe the bolt is bottoming out.
look at your coolant see if it has oil at the top ,maybe look with the cap off and see if there is to much turbulance in the radiator with the engine running.if you can do a compression test,it is a pain but maybe just a head gasket,better than the other things it might be.was the head retorqued after 50 hrs? was there a lot of metal in the oil when you changed it?
I think that the reusal of the cylinder head bolts would be ok ,no difference that I know of reusing the head bolts than retorqueing the head. If there is any hard junk on them I would be careful and run a tap in the block and a die on the bolts,but make sure that when you do this that there is no unusal amount of metal being taken off.Stop if there is,some difference in thread pitching I have seen.Though mostly threads are cut to loose.
you can always jack it up carefully on heavy jackstands and engage the 4 wheel with the engine not running but in gear and see what wheels are engaged. you could also press the diff.lock and check it.
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