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if that is the only place you can feel slop replace it ,verses having them seperate later they are not expensive.
a few years ago I thought of doing this but was discouraged to do so cause of the run lenght time on the electric fan was to long,I will be courious t see how well long term this works out.
something you might want to think about ,I can not remember which dealer it was but,if your filter housing has a removeable nipple that holds the oil filter,someone makes a new one with a different thread so more common filters can be used.like I can not remember the thread size but the filter I use now is a ph8a .you can get them anywhere.really I had a housing that had a fixed nipple I bought a new housing with the removeable nipple and the adaptor so filters would be easier to find.
are you saying that and I assume that you have a 2 stage clutch with the clutch all the way in the pto spins with power not just from things spinning where there is no real power to the pto shaft. if that is what you are saying that is no pin. but I have a partial pin shear at the engagement/disengagement pto shifter where it comes in contact with the trans. housing. I used a pin inside a pin when I replaced it.
if possible use a bottom tap instead of a taper tap ,I assume that the effected threads were at the end of the bolt placing the problem at the bottom of the hole.also check the hole depth maybe the bolt is bottoming out.
look at your coolant see if it has oil at the top ,maybe look with the cap off and see if there is to much turbulance in the radiator with the engine running.if you can do a compression test,it is a pain but maybe just a head gasket,better than the other things it might be.was the head retorqued after 50 hrs? was there a lot of metal in the oil when you changed it?
I think that the reusal of the cylinder head bolts would be ok ,no difference that I know of reusing the head bolts than retorqueing the head. If there is any hard junk on them I would be careful and run a tap in the block and a die on the bolts,but make sure that when you do this that there is no unusal amount of metal being taken off.Stop if there is,some difference in thread pitching I have seen.Though mostly threads are cut to loose.
you can always jack it up carefully on heavy jackstands and engage the 4 wheel with the engine not running but in gear and see what wheels are engaged. you could also press the diff.lock and check it.
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well I am confused, I topped off all the levels except the one hub that was low.I added oil to that side and oil came to the top at the hub but did not run at the closest axle level plug.So I bushhogged 5 acres came back to look at it and when I pulled the plug on the side that was in question all the levels were right.But I heard some pressure build up when I removed the plug ,so I thought that the vent plug was plugged,which it had a problem,the spring was to long and would not collapse enough to let out air.but when I removed the plug for the level on that side it was overfull,could the gear cluster act like a pump and transfer oil from one side to the other?Is there a spillway that holds oil from moving freelly from one side to another?I am about ready to drink to many beers.
