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Hi
I have the Changchai ZN490T engine, it think mostly used in DF's same engine but 4 cyl, and same hydraulic pump. I got a larger capacity from Tommy at Affordable. Send pics he will be able to match you up with one you need. A s for the gear case you will need the part or pic. There are a number of DF dealers in Canada, not sure about the US right now.
Dave
Just a quick note. The 'battery light' does not indicate a battery or charging issue, it is just an indicator light that indicates that you have left your key switch in the on position leading to draining of your battery with any possible accessories still drawing. Just hope you didn't do all the changes based on that and not other charging related issues. Definitely cranking issues would be one of those although bad grounds could also give you some issues.
Dave
The best addition I made is a hydraulic top-link. It makes anything you add way more versatile especially a rear blade. By changing the angle a bit as you need you can dig a little as well. I find my 7' blade very useful even without any rear weight. Plus attaching any implement way easier as you can adjust length as you need. Probably the best single relatively cheap addition I have made.
Dave
Heres a thread from another site. I used an old pallet truck,(free) stripped it down and made a set that could also be used adapted to my loader arms. Adding a hydraulic top link makes them more usable. I like them as I can carry an extra heavy load as needed.
http://ctocf.proboards.com/post/15832/thread
Cant seem to get the direct link but if you highlight and go seems to work
Good luck Dave
Hi
I have Baldwin equals for all my chineese OEM filters. I get them through a trucking parts supply. The prices were excellent. I bought in bulk. Interesting when I got them all. They are all stamped made in China.
dave
I think you are right on this. The DF’s have the same option and have seen some with it. I would love to add this as well for the reasons you mention if I could find the parts.
Heres an except from the manual if it helps at all. A few pics I found as well
Good luck Dave
5.10 Adjustment of Air Brake Facilities (Optional)
Air brake facilities should be adjusted in two aspects as follows:
a. Adjustment of air pump: If the air pressure is found too low while the air pump is working, the exhaust valves’ sealing should be checked up. Clean or grind the exhaust valve if necessary. If the oil gathering in the air tank is found more than 15 ml after the air pump works for 24 hours, then wear-and tear of piston rings should be checked up, replace them if necessary.
b. Adjustment of air braking timing
If the timing of air brake is not correct, then it should be adjusted. If the pull rod of brake valve is shortened, the brake timing becomes earlier, conversely, the brake timing is put off. Usually, trailer’s braking should be initiated a little bit earlier than the tractor’s shoe brakes do.
Here is a pic from CBP'site showing the back of a TSC354 with I belivie the pump he is talking about. Not sure where it is plumbed to from the pic
Dave
Hey Timbender,
I left the same wire as the manifold heater and has worked no problem, although I should replace with larger one. (12 ga.) . Haven't blown a fuse yet and only heat up to about 30 sec. each time, the wire still seems good, no overheating evident. On the list to replace though……..
Dave
1. is the valve cover gasket re-useable?
If it has a rubber one like the Chang Chai engines in the DF's , then yes, if not then a replacement is needed.
Dave
I would also check that they are connected at all. My DF came with a manifold preheat and GPs. A few winters ago had a hard time starting with the manifold heater. Switched the wire to the GP busbar and a few 20 sec. bursts and it fired right up. Put a tester on the bus bar or wire connecting and have someone engage them and see if you get some draw. It may need some cleaning as well (black paint in my case) so you get good contact. You will also know if the switch is the problem as well which is common. After that you may need to check the individual GP's. Where i am you can't start without them at -20 C. Although the block heater helps alot but only use that below -10 C.
Good luck Dave
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