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[You unpin the cross bar at the battery box]
Thanks for the response.My forward mounts are 4 bolts on each side.
I will analyze my next FEL removal and make modifications if necessary.Sorry to hear of your problems.
Have you tried the” Services” category/section of Craigslist?You may find a Tractor Mechanic locally that could fix your problem.
I have used my tractor almost daily since this modification.
After my initial starter modification I remodeled it again by leaving only one washer on the pinion gear shaft of the reduction geared starter and removing the other washer and leather cushion.
That change seemed to give me a better ratio of flywheel gear engagements to failed engagements.
Now sometimes it engages instantly while sometimes it takes 4 tries.
But I hear no horrible teeth grinding as before.
Only other concern NOW will be that the unrestrained starter pinion slamming into that single 1/8” washer overtime time destroying it and maybe fracturing the cast iron nose of the starter.
I’ll let you know.
Ps,Check your starter engagement so this problem doesn’t affect your tractor.David;
That propane conversion is still running. And I use the hand start in all weather although definitely sluggish in really cold weather.
I can’t remember if I have ever used the hoe in sub teen conditions that might effect the regulator and gas flow.Ps,Are we the only posters on CTOA?
Affordable Tractor has it for $55 and I will purchase it because it is “affordable”.
But I plan on Not destroying the ring gear I am removing…..if possible.
Hopefully my starter modification will fix the problem if I caught it in time.
Mr. Privett;
I just cut it off with a thin grinder cut-off blade.
I replaced it with a well greased leather washer sandwiched between two steel flat washers.
I calculated I increased my flywheel gear engagement by .250”.
The engine starts and sounds like I am getting better engagement but the starter pinion momentarily did not instantly disengage during one of the five engine starts. Time will tell.
Ps;That rebound bearing I cut off is held in place by a round wire C-Clip. You must first remove the cast iron starter housing from the pinion assembly.
The metal bearing just needs tapped off the C-Clip towards the pinion and then pry the C-Clip from the starter shaft.If I have to replace the flywheel ring gear why can’t I simply remove it from the flywheel and flip it over ?
What do you think?
<p style=”text-align: center;”>Thanks for the response;</p>
The picture does not show it but there is fresh wear on those flywheel teeth. The metal cushion/rebound bearing that the starter pinion slams into on that QDJ1331A starter is .296” thick. I compared that dimension with an old style starter core and its rebound bearing measured .225”.A difference of .71 inches. All else being equal means that newer style gear reduction starter is not engaging the flywheel teeth by .71 inches less than the old style starters. The worn teeth confirm this.
I eliminated the rebound bearing on the gear reduction starter and replaced it with a leather cushion between to steel washers. Sorry I failed to measure the thickness. I replaced the modified starter.
The tractor started but I am not convinced the problem is improved. I will keep you posted.
Ps,I cut that rebound bearing off. I found out it is held on the pinion shaft by a retaining hog ring?. I could have probably used a socket to tap it off the retaining ring and then pried the retaining ring off and remove the rebound bearing from the pinion shaft. Live and learn.
