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The Relay is a good modification.
Also add a battery disconnect. They are great for disconnecting high battery energy from the electrical system in emergencies or during boost/charging situations.
Here is another link…… if it will post.
Thanks for the response Mr. Privett.
The essence of this website is member participation. It won’t survive without active involvement.
So no one knows who the moderator is? Then it must not be a real, live moderator and only an algorithm.
This website owner offers no human interaction other than accepting lifetime members money.
American capitalism at its best.Just tried to publish original post from two weeks ago. It says my topic is “Pending moderation”,yet never gets published?
Yet my queries on the problem get published immediately.
Every time I try to post in forums I get an error message stating my topic dialog box is missing a topic.
It refuses to post my topic or message.
<p style=”text-align: right;”>My three latest messages about the problem either are being ignored or not reaching the moderator.
But I see this published in the tractor maintenance forum.</p>Correction;
When sent via text the picture file size was not asked for….only when sent via emails.
I made the ball to slug modification 1000 hours ago and have had zero problems.
Absolutely easy shifting transition from one wheel to 4 wheel drive when engine torque is lessened/relieved on drive train. I did chamfer all slugs on both ends.
I consider this an excellent modification and need to again thank the CTOA member whose tutorial I relied on.David;I was surprised this tutorial was published. This website doesn’t allow duplicates and this tutorial was originally an addendum to my earlier starter problem post in the tractor troubleshooting section.
Yes more forceful clack when both electromagnetic coils are energized.
Problems with my 254 Jinma starter this week was a learning experience.
I found an old discarded starter solenoid that only occasionally worked (about one out of ten times).
I decided to disassemble it.
To remove the black plastic cover only requires unsoldering the electromagnetic coil leads. The battery/starter motor leads in that black plastic cover can remain in place.
Desoldering requires a vacuum source or some way to wick away molten solder. I used a small wire brush to sweep it away (wear goggles/safety glasses).Once the leads are free the cover will lift off. What I found was bad quality control (typical Chinese at this point).
There is two electromagnetic windings in this solenoid. Technically a primary and secondary winding to enhance the electromagnetic forces. That means there are 4 wire ends. Those 4 wire ends are then solder together creating 2 wire leads that are soldered to the outside of the black plastic cap.
On my solenoid there was only 3 leads. The 4th lead was laying loose under the plastic cap and never connected. Soldering it to the 2nd lead allowed both electromagnetic coils to energize and work consistently once the black cap is reinstalled.
To test it you will need a sufficient voltage source and the iron core that comes with it. My weak 10 volt car battery was not sufficient ,so 12 volts is important,( a 40 amp boost battery charger should also be sufficient.
Then energize the two soldered joints
In the cap while the iron core is installed to get a forceful magnetic reaction.Found the new Starter Reduction Motors at Walmart for $183.As usual they were out of stock.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/New-Upgrade-Gear-Reduction-Starter-Jinma-184-284-3000-0120-C602-007-P630N-2-2KW/223977102
